Jump to content

Gruen Wristwatch 525 Ss-083


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

My name is Shahbaz. I have just registered with Watch Repair Talk, and I am eager to learn about watches and their repairs.

I just bought an old and semi-rusted Gruen Wristwatch. I have tried to uncase the movement, but the movement is larger than the opening at the back.

Can anyone guide me in how to get the movement out?

 

With Kindest regards,

 

Shahbaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Will says, it comes out the front when you remove the bezel complete with crystal still in place. If you look very carefully, you should find a section of the joint has a very small slot to allow a knife to be used to pry off the bezel. Be very careful if using a hand held knife because as the bezel pops off you may follow through and damage the hands and dial. You can purchase a bezel removing tool that makes the job safer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you WillFly, Thank you Geo.

I will try the bezel and report back.

By the way, I did try Mark's method by pumping air through the stem's hole; it did not budge the crystal. The reason is mostly because of the rust build-up which hinders the air flow. 

Regards,

Shahbaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there,

I checked the bezel. It is not removable.

In the picture I have had attached, there is the ring that has created the channel for the seal gasket. It looks as if, it is compression fit or threaded in, because I see a joint there.

The movement is sitting inside of this ring. But since the ring’s outside circumference is tapered in, the movement can’t pass through.

Is it possible that the ring has to be removed in order to get the movement out? And if so, how would I get that out? Is there a tool for its removal?

With Regards,

Shahbaz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Thanks sidmind. The said ring is a dust shield, and was frozen to the watch case. I used plenty of penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Next day I used a wooden skewer and pried it all-around, and forced it upward and out.

Now, the movement is out, and man, wasn’t I happy. I took the dial out and used cold water and dish soap, and gave it a good bath. Guess what happened? I truly clean the dial. All printed markings were gone. The only things left are the numbers, which are appliqués. Upon further investigation, I found that the winding stem is solidly rusted in the case tube, and is not going to come out.

Any advice on how to remove the stem out?

 

Well, after all these struggles, I realized two things, first, the best tool to have is patience, and second is to have two watches; ruin the first one and learn how to fix the second one.

Thank you all for your advice.

Shahbaz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

too bad about the dial, they can be very delicate and it is always recommended just to leave them as is without cleaning.

 

On the stem,  I bet you a $1 it will come out.

 

have you removed the dial from the watch? if so can you provide a photo of the stem from the dial side?

Usually when I get a stuck stem I back the stem detent skew in and out a few turns while pushing down, then tap the stem on a desk.

 

by looking at the rest of the watch I am just not seeing the kind of rust that would lock the stem in forever, but that is why I would like to see the underside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi sidmind,

Here I have attached 5 peictures for your reveiw and advice.

The stem is clean and shiny to the left of the winding gear, but solidly rusted to the right of the gear.

The stem was so weak due to the rust, that it snaped as Ier  touched the winding crown.

I do hope that you, or may be MARK, have a solution. I do not want to junk this plate. It was made in Germany. I do not think that I can find another German made Gruen on the eBay??. Any way, I am ooking forward to pay you that $1.00. bill; I would even frame it for you. 

 

Regards,

 

Shahbaz.

 

P.S.: How would I re-attach pictures?

Edited by Shahbaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an idea that may work, 50/50.

I will use a jeweler’s saw, and cut the stem on both sides of the clutch, and remove the clutch.

Then use a thin x 1/8" or so hardened steel, inserting it in the opening where the clutch was. Laying it on the cut end of the stem and gently tapping it out.

I will start the process and keep you posted.

Regards,

Shahbaz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wish you well with your idea. If you go ahead with this and the tip of the stem is rusted into the plate you may never get it out unless by drilling, and that would require a carbide drill and some sort of drill guide to stabilise the drill. What I would suggest is to completely strip the movement then submerge it in some Plus Gas for about a week before going any further. After a week with the movement still in the small jar of Plus Gas, to give it a good couple of blasts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Also try heating it in a pan of boiling water before gentle persuasion. If you do this you may just get things to move before carrying out you major surgery.

Here's a link for Plus Gas, it's the best release agent I've ever used.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plus-Gas-Lubricant-Spout-Tin-/360697911631?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&var=&hash=item53fb45594f

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That Plus Gas looks very interesting, Geo - I've never heard of that before. Do you put some into a shallow dish or saucer and then immerse the movement in it totally? Does it clean as well as de-rust - or just mainly remove rust?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That Plus Gas looks very interesting, Geo - I've never heard of that before. Do you put some into a shallow dish or saucer and then immerse the movement in it totally? Does it clean as well as de-rust - or just mainly remove rust?

Hi Will, Plus Gas is not a rust remover or proper lubricant. It is a very fine fluids that is designed to slowly work it's way into screw threads that are seized.

I have used it for years when working on old motorcycles and cars. It works best if you can either submerge the item if is small like a watch movement, or if it is large, form a small dam of plasticine around the offending nut or shaft then flood with Plus Gas. It also comes in spay form for these hard to reach parts. Regarding cleaning, it will to a degree but not what I would recommend using it for.

It does not remove rust, it only allows the rusty bond to break easier. It is excellent, but occasionally other methods have to be employed.

briefly:

Plus Gas...........Release Agent

WD40................Water Displacement Agent

Oil......................Lubricant

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

MISSION ACUMPLISHED!!

Hi There,

I followed the procedures I outlined earlier to extract the rusted winding stem out, and added a few steps. I couldn’t get the GassPlus locally, and used lighter fluid instead.

Then I did the cutting of the stems in two locations. I used a wooden cloth pins in order to control the blade from hitting the opposite side, after stem was cut, and used cigarette lighter to heat the rusted area. I used a 2x4 yellow pine, and made a small dimple in it to allow the rusted stem to penetrate into, at the same time to protect the movement’s plate from being damaged. I used screwdriver shaft to drive the stem flush with the winding gear, and from there I used my bent tip scriber to drive the rusted/frozen stem out of the bushing. I am happy with the results, even though I did rush and damaged the dial.

Well, now I will go ahead with cleaning, looking for any damaged parts, and if all well, then I will oil the movement and case it.

If every thing is OK and watch start ticking, then I look for a used German made dial and a new stem.

I would like to thank you all for your advice, which was very helpful.

I will post any problem along the way, seeking your advice.

Until then,

Best Regards,

Shahbaz.

P.S.: I have added some pictures showing the work.

post-162-0-89309600-1397674554_thumb.jpg

post-162-0-41806600-1397674612_thumb.jpg

post-162-0-50402400-1397674656_thumb.jpg

post-162-0-28034400-1397674705_thumb.jpg

post-162-0-90608900-1397674748_thumb.jpg

post-162-0-76153300-1397674794_thumb.jpg

post-162-0-55682300-1397674852_thumb.jpg

Edited by Shahbaz
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I can try a big tweezer the biggest I had in my set didn’t do the trick but I’ll check if my wife has some none watchmaking ones. 
    • Yes, gum netal, which actually means iron. It is thick enough to be grinded in order to remove the rust pits and then polished, but it will need blackening oxidation in the end for protection from getting rusty. The watch has nothing to do with the railways, it is the same like the 'squirrel' candys - You do not really expect to find a squirrel inside...
    • I think the app is misinterpreted the noise because of the extra case construction    Tom
    • I have just picked up a vintage soviet Zarja watch and I have been inspecting it prior to putting it on the 'to be serviced' pile. When I measured it with the timegrapher app, I found it was gaining loads of time. Taking the case back off, I find it's a tiny movement within a relatively large watch and it has a separate steel cover over the movement which presumably holds it in place against the caseback.   Checking the app again without the cover, I find it is actually running reasonably well for an untouched old watch. Putting the cover and the caseback back in place and it reads as massively gaining time again. This behaviour is consistent every time I take the cover on and off. I have checked the balance cock is fixed and the screw is tight, so I assume that the cover and case back are pinching the movement in some way and making it run fast. Not sure I can see how that works because if the cover is touching the balance, surely it would make it stop not run faster? It can't be touching just the hairspring to make it effectively shorter.  Placing only the cover in place or placing just the caseback in place (not even snapping it shut) both cause the fast running. Pretty sure there are a couple of millimetres clearance between the case back and the movement when the cover isn't there. I have also checked the watch, cover and case back for magnetism with another phone app but none of them seem to have an appreciable magnetic field. Perhaps I need to preemptively demagnetise and get a real compass to check them with.  I appreciate that this is just an app using the built in microphone on my phone - could it be misreading a ringing / reverberation of this cover to give the wrong result? Observing the watch just running on the bench closed up, it does seem to be appreciably gaining time. I will wind it, set the time and leave it running overnight and see how it does with no cover / back in place. Perhaps I will also see how it performs on the wrist to rule out misreading by the app    What am I missing here?
    • OK, sometimes it really happens without problems at all. You can take a covex oilve 120/12 stone from Molnija 3602.
×
×
  • Create New...