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Posted

Hi all,

   My friend from the local jewelry store called the other day and had two Rolexes he wanted serviced. First one is a 3035 and it has a broken mainspring and possibly cannon pinion is a bit loose but I'll have to wait to be sure of that until I get watch actually running. The other one is a 1570 that was completely seized. You could set the hands but the drive train would not move. Even after I took the watch apart down to the drive train (removing balance and pallet fork) the wheels still would not move. After I had it apart I started putting it back one wheel at a time to see if there was any issue other than just lots of grime. When I did this all wheels would move, as freely as I expected considering how dirty movement was.

    Yesterday I cleaned The movement with the exception of the autowind part as it needs upper and lower jewels. I reassembled the watch last night except for the wheel that drives the center sweep pinion and the autowind. Gave it a wind and it started running very well until I turned it over face down and it stopped. Now when I cleaned it I had balance on mainplate and checked balance several times and it has a good free motion. Anyway after scratching my head and thinking a bit I finally saw that the center wheel leaned ever so slightly so that it came in contact with the balance. You can only see how it is leaning by looking at the gap between the wheel and mainplate. You can see there is a larger gap on one side of the wheel. To further test this I can allow the watch to stop then apply gentle pressure on the cannon pinion pushing away from the where I think it hits the balance and the watch will then start on its own and run fine in all positions.

    I seem to remember when I put the watch together the center wheel had more side to side shake than I thought normal but didn't see anything wrong so continued on. I checked under 10x magnification.

    Now I'm trying to figure out what is most likely wrong. Could be a bent wheel however the gap between wheel and mainplate always is on the same side and if it were the wheel that should move. The entire shaft of the wheel could be worn and it is just being pushed in that direction or the center hole is worn itself. Does anyone else have any ideas or suggestions or have you ran across this issue before?

Thanks,

Charles K

Posted

Hi,

   I have taken the cannon pinion back off and looked at the watch under 20x power microscope and it does appear as it the lower center bushing is oval shaped. Now I have been searching and researching about all afternoon. Does anyone know if a bush for a 1530 will fit a 1570,I think it's part #8076. I saw one supplier who had one and they said they were interchangeable however I can't access the Jules Borel material page where I usually double check claims like that. I did find another site when looking for a parts list and when I checked 1570 the parts list came up listing 1530 as the base movement for 1570.

Thanks,

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi,

   Just wanted to update the 1570 progress a bit. I finally decided to just look for a donor plate and move on. I found one with several other good but extra parts that I picked up with the intention of selling the unused parts. Made the transplant a few days ago and watch ran well until yesterday. Yesterday the watch just up and stopped. After several hours of observing I finally saw that the mainplate jewel for the balance looked as if it had raised up some. Decided that what I would do would be to take the jewel from the now unused plate and transplant it, I liked the way it looked better. Anyway got that done last night and have it back up and running. So far I have replaced those parts, new case tube, and new crown. Later today I will try to post a picture or two. 

   Also got another call from the store with two other watches to repair. An old Waltham pocket watch that was very gummy and dried out in the need of a new crystal, and a Movado chronograph that is running but has sticky buttons and the hands are a bit reluctant to reset at times. Have already finished and returned the Waltham however I'm still observing the Movado operation. Had to build a wrench just to get the back off. If has a ten sided back but none of my wrenches would fit.

Charles K

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    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
    • Once you are aware of the problem, you can adjust as necessary. I have a couple of the Omega 10xx, and they are not my favourites. They seem a bit flimsy and not as solid as previous generation Omega. But I think that's true of a lot of movements from the 70-80s. For me, the 50-60s is the peak in watch movements, where the design criteria was quality, not saving the last penny.
    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
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