Seiko oscillating weight - is it possible to reduce play in the bearing?

[Birbdad]

So my first serious repair, a vintage 7006 had a ton of slop in the bearings so badly that the weight was hitting the mainplate. 

I don't know if you have a staking set but i used a rounded hole punch a quite large one and tapped a bit in the center of the bearing. This compressed the metal and took up the slop perfectly. 

So far it's the one time i've used my staking set but it worked like a charm.

[mikepilk]

36 minutes ago, Birbdad said:

I don't know if you have a staking set but i used a rounded hole punch a quite large one and tapped a bit in the center of the bearing. This compressed the metal and took up the slop perfectly. 

You cannot compress the metal. The two halves push against each other.  

Maybe they had separated and you just pushed them back together?

[Birbdad]

33 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

You cannot compress the metal. The two halves push against each other.  

Maybe they had separated and you just pushed them back together?

that looks like the same bearing design as the 7006, the center part with the screwdriver slot should be one piece of metal? 

[mikepilk]

38 minutes ago, Birbdad said:

that looks like the same bearing design as the 7006, the center part with the screwdriver slot should be one piece of metal? 

I think it's the same bearing in many Seiko models.

It's too pieces of metal. In the pic below, the part with the slot is (inverted) on the left. The bottom part is on the right (also shown inverted). The two surfaces coloured yellow are pressed together, with the wash in between. The balls run on the sloping edges.

[Birbdad]

3 hours ago, mikepilk said:

I think it's the same bearing in many Seiko models.

It's too pieces of metal. In the pic below, the part with the slot is (inverted) on the left. The bottom part is on the right (also shown inverted). The two surfaces coloured yellow are pressed together, with the wash in between. The balls run on the sloping edges.

Oh hmm those might be a different design then the later ones? I literally just tapped the metal with one of my biggest rounded holed punches on the underside and it pressed it outward. 

[mikepilk]

1 hour ago, Birbdad said:

Oh hmm those might be a different design then the later ones? I literally just tapped the metal with one of my biggest rounded holed punches on the underside and it pressed it outward. 

I had an old 7S26 which I used to practice on, and the bearing looked just the same.

[AndyGSi]

9 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

I had an old 7S26 which I used to practice on, and the bearing looked just the same.

Yes, it's the same on a number of different movements with a number of alternatives.

https://www.spareparts-watches.com/product/9834333/509-184-oscillating-weight-with-ball-bearing-substitute-509-004-509-080-509-074-509-069-for-seiko-7005-seiko-7006-seiko-7009-seiko-7019-seiko-7s26-seiko-7s36

[Birbdad]

20 hours ago, mikepilk said:

I had an old 7S26 which I used to practice on, and the bearing looked just the same.

well i can testify first hand the method i'm describing worked perfectly with a VERY loose 7006 weight which is basically the same part as the 7s26 weight. 

I didn't even take the thing apart, just put the whole weight on my staking set and whacked it from the bottom side.

[AndyGSi]

13 minutes ago, Birbdad said:

well i can testify first hand the method i'm describing worked perfectly with a VERY loose 7006 weight which is basically the same part as the 7s26 weight. 

I didn't even take the thing apart, just put the whole weight on my staking set and whacked it from the bottom side.

This suggests as @mikepilk said.

Maybe they had separated and you just pushed them back together?

Once they're pushed together they can't be deformed any more no matter how hard you hit them.