Timegrapher noob questions
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By Latetothegame · Posted
The mystery has been solved. Geotex was correct. As I had mentioned, I had ordered a bezel removal tool to see if that would work. While I was attempting to remove the bezel, the already cracked crystal cracked some more and fell off. As I was shaking out the loose pieces from the dial, the dial tipped and came halfway out of the crystal opening, stopped only by the split stem still being place. At that point I decided to fully commit to the side-cutting plier approach to popping off the crown and stem. One good firm prying move and it came right off. see attached pics. That was last night. The watch is now fixed and awaiting a new crystal and band. The case is in fact, a one piece case. The crumbling crystal revealed a near perfect beautiful dial. I’m keeping this one. Thank you to ALL for you time and advice! -
By LazyTimegrapher · Posted
Attached are images of the watch from various angles. I’m still interested in unraveling the mystery of how the case back is opened, although I probably won’t attempt it any time soon. The little bent metal under the bezel is I believe part of the mechanism for the unidirectional winding bezel. Perhaps that can be pulled off somehow to reveal screws below, but it’s hard for me to imagine that removing that metal ring is the way to open the watch. That metal ring doesn’t look like it’s meant to be removed in a regular service. the other images show that there are gaps between the case back and the case. I do suspect it needs to be rotated to come off, but I’m not adventurous enough to attempt trail an error on this watch. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Have you got photos with the bezel off, I totally agree about not spoiling such a watch but I would like to know how the back is removed. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Nothing to laugh at, if it works, it works. Yes if money was no object a professional automated machine would be more efficient and look the part but for most of us several thousand pounds is too much. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
The pin spacing should be about half a hair either side of the spring when it is still. Tight but not so tight that it crimps up or stretches when you move the reg. arm either way. Really need a downward view picture when it is still so everyone can see how even the coil spacings are. Pictures from any angle are deceptive, like your train picture where the coils are not visible at the top side, are they closer together than the side that can be seen. ? Hard to see the coil spacings to the left of the stud holder, its a dark area but i thought more would be visible , does it suggest some bunching up at the opposite side ?
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