Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I was gifted 2 L&R cleaners.  I am currently using a Bulova watchmaster for cleaning.  The one on the left is running fine and has a reverse switch.  The one on the right does not have reverse and the power control only works on full speed.  Heat seams to work on both.  Yes I did break one jar transporting them.  Does switching direction while running hurt the unit?  Can the speed controller be repaired and how?  Which one is the better machine?  What are the 4 disks that came with everything?  Thanks.  

IMG_6483.JPG

IMG_6484.JPG

Posted

I have removed the rheostat from the Mastermatic.  it is a Rex Rheostat 50 watt type k-50.  I can't find a exact replacement.  Does anyone know where to find one or another one that will work?

Posted

A few comments based on your queries:

- Reversing during use is a normal function meant to improve cleaning and shouldn't hurt anything. When the field reverses it functions as an electrical dampening brake until the rotation stops and then starts the spin in the opposite direction. Of course, it would only be recommended to be reversing at the relatively slow speeds you'd be using with a loaded basked submerged in cleaning fluids. 

- Those rings aren't part of the L&R equipment, but you may find them useful. They are shims that are used to hold a crystal while you pick it up with a crystal lift, and a set of these accommodates many different fixed diameters (in mm) as listed on the rings. 

- You should attempt to find the resistance rating (in ohms) of that rheostat, either through careful examination for more markings, perusing old manufacturer information or by direct measurement from front to back contacts along the full slider track (if the resistance coil is intact). You don't have to get one that is exactly the same, and you can add a fixed power resistor in series to help adjust the "fit" if you can't dial in the sweet spot for operation, but attempting to match the original values is best. You do need to have a wattage rating of the same or higher so the speed control can handle the amount of heat that must be dissipated during use. 

- There are a number of very useful threads here in the WRT forums dealing with L&R repairs, and this has included discussions of rheostat speed controls as well as electrical schematics for many models, so you should do some searching and you may find the info you need. 

While repairing an L&R open frame Junior I was able to source a 50 watt 800 ohm rheostat from Surplus Sales of Nebraska (their item number RWA-A-29418-5). It is now listed as sold out, but next to that listing on their page is one with a slightly larger body rated at 75 watt 750 ohm which might work for you, or you may be able to find something else on their site:

https://www.surplussales.com/Potentiometers/Rheostats/PotsRheost-3.html

I just returned from an international trip but sometime in the next day or so I'll also go look at my other L&R machines and spare parts bin to see if I have any Rex rheostats to check out, in case yours is broken or shorted out.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks Geotex.  I was able to find one at a steep price.  Should be in today.  Thanks for answering all my questions.

Posted

Ok, good luck with the repair! We are all jealous if you received the machines originally as gifts...

Sorry about the steep price of the replacement part. You will also find that the glass jars with the embossed L&R logo fetch a pretty price as well. However, the very first L&R jars didn't have that detail but had the manufacturer mark of "5371" on the bottom and these have the same lid threads and squared-off bases. They sell for less but are still "original" and if you can find them they will fit the same lids and wall wave breakers while more securely sitting in the machine base than some of the modern replacement jars that have been suggested.  

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

The Mastermatic I believe has auto reverse and is the one I will probably use once repaired.  the other will be used as backup I guess.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @oldhippy, hasn't been on since the 14th of April, I messaged him nine days ago, no reply.  I  hope he's on an around the world trip with endless booze and supermodels.   joking apart, I  hope he's alright. Does anyone know anything? 
    • Some of the older American companies did at least claim to manufacture them so reliably that any one of their tailstocks should perfectly center any one of their headstocks. But it would take probably someone like nickelsilver to verify that in a big enough collection.
    • You also have another potential issue with head and tail stocks, in my research it would seem that for the American style lathes the head and tail stocks were bored as a pair. So a matched pair is good a “pair “ made up from two different lathes cause some headaches. The Swiss Geneva style lathes are much lighter but were apparently made to fit any lathe. I have seen mention of being able to shim the tailstock as well to true up. indexing is again not so straightforward for a watchmaker lathe, at least not as I have found so far. Often a lathe will come with basic indexing which is limited to 60 positions. The full index plates do come up at times for eywatering prices. It is very possible to do that electronically. As well as what @SwissSeiko maybe able to point you to have a look here. https://imakewatches.com/projects/CNCIndexDriver.html   https://imakewatches.com/projects/MillingAttachment.html   Tom
    • On a watch repair discussion group that you know that we love to see naked watches out of the case you show us a box? I think a book on watchmakers lathes should be helpful.   The watchmakers' lathe, its use and abuse; a story of the lathe in its various forms, past and present, its construction and proper uses by     Goodrich, Ward L https://archive.org/details/watchmakerslathe00good  
    • Got it. So a WW lathe will have that graduated drive pulley for different speeds and similar setup for the bed and tailstock, but they won't be fully compatible with one another in terms of parts. Thanks! The picture helps a lot.
×
×
  • Create New...