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Posted

Apparently it's James Bond's choice of watch!

Picked up this pair at an antique/estate sort of shop near me. The owner asked what I was looking for, and when I said wristwatches he pulled out several Ziploc bags full and let me dig through them. I picked up this pair for a nice price.

One case is in pretty rough shape, the other looks fairly good. Both movements seem reasonably clean, and the balances swing easily when I wiggle the watches. Interesting that one is shock protected and the other isn't.

I'll post more when I get around to working on them, but for now:

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A couple more inside the backs. Looks like service marks in one from 78 and 88.

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  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Finally getting these guys in the repair rotation.

I'm starting with the N510R, since it's shock protected and will be less prone to damage on my clumsy wrist 🙂

Dial side

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Trying to keep track of the different bridge screws. One is missing, and I don't want to steal it from the other 510. Maybe I'll find a donor movement, since I need a stem or two anyway.

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Left-hand wound mainspring! Don't forget that when putting it back...

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All ready for a bath

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  • Like 1
Posted

Snap!

I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).

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Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.

 

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Posted

Lubed up, back together (minus the one screw), and I'd say not a bad result! Going to give it a day or two to run in while I clean up the case and regulate it again, but off to a good start.

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  • Like 4
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Still haven't gotten around to getting stems or screws, but I did make my first attempt at polishing a case. I just used a soft mop and rouge to reduce my odds of ruining them, and I think they came up pretty nice. Also gave the crystals a polish on the same wheel while I was at it. They were both very badly scratched up.

The one on the left is fairly beat up, but it'll still make for a decent presentation.

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Posted

Donor movement showed up, so I stole the bridge screw from it. Which made me sad, because it's in such nice shape! It seems a shame. Maybe I'll find a use for it one of these days.

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Unfortunately, the stem is for a different style of case and is much too short.

Fortunately, I ordered a brand new stem from McCaw Company. Unfortunately, the crown on the donor movement is thoroughly stripped out (it unscrewed in a shower of brass) so i just put the old stem back in for now until I source a new crown. As you can see, it's just a little too long for this case.

Overall I'm super pleased. I didn't think I'd like the bracelet, and even that is growing on me.

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Anyone have a favorite crown assortment?

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finally getting back to this project! I sourced a new stem and branded crown. Predictably, I promptly cut the stem too short. I bought a new one, but thought I'd try shimming it out a bit first, which seemed to work just fine.

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The bracelet has a neat clasp I've never seen before.

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  • Like 5

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    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
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