Jump to content

Making Gravers - Calculating the angle


Recommended Posts

I am about to start on my journey with a new lathe, and need to make some gravers. I ordered the steel to make them and the sharpening stones etc. and planned on making a 45 degree, 20 degree and 30 degree tools to get me started. Luckily I snagged a graver sharpening tool in a recent tool job lot buy so I'm off to a good start.

PXL_20231130_133409007.thumb.jpg.469488f41883145716fedba583b7f383.jpg

I was pondering how I could get the correct angle for the sharpening process and pictured myself trying to balance everything and try to read a protractor and thought there must be a better way.... here is what I came up with:

image.thumb.png.298e4f65d87efc9aac96be09b0e82af6.png

So all I have to do now is put in the dimensions of my graver and graver sharpening tool (should only have to do once) and the angle I want, and the sheet will tell me the distance (L) from the tip of the top of the diamond to the front face of the graver sharpening tool, so in the example above (fake graver sharpening tool dimensions) if I want a 30 degree angle on the graver I need to have 95.162mm of graver sticking out, then file file away!

Turns out my maths teachers were correct, I will use trigonometry every day!

Can't upload the excel sheet here but can send it to you if you want it, just pm me with your email.

PS

Just realised that the model only works for square gravers ie a = b on above drawing - head is hurting from the maths to make it work for non-square tools also.

Model also assumes that the angle where the graver enters the graver sharpening tool is 90 degrees.

Edited by Waggy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I love a bit of maths but won't the angle change as the length is reduced by sharpening?  Wouldn't it be easier to cut some plastic/ metal sheet to the desired angle, align the sharpening to it and insert the graver.

Yes and no, because the length is referenced to the top of the diamond, the tool will first start to sharpen on the bottom tip  and the graver will be sitting at the 'wrong' angle eg 28 degrees, as the tool face wears during the sharpening the error in angle will reduce until, just as you reach the tip of the top of the diamond it will be exactly the angle you want - ie 30 degrees in the example above.

10 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Why don't you buy them already sharpened. 

Now where is the fun in that? 🤣

Edited by Waggy
typo
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Do You think that this is so important to have angle exactly 30 degr, or 60 or whatever?  What if one holds the graver by hand when sharpening it? I for example sharpen my gravers without any tool that will ensure exact angles, simply holding them with hand.

Edited by nevenbekriev
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Do You think that this is so important to have angle exactly 30 degr, or 60 or whatever?  What if one holds the graver by hand when sharpening it? I for example sharpen my gravers without any tool that will ensure exact angles, simply holding them with hand.

Been hand sharpening all my tools for nearly 40 years, using bench stones, grinding stones and disks. It takes practice to achieve what you want on the graver quickly but well worth the effort for the time saved. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/27/2023 at 8:21 PM, nevenbekriev said:

Do You think that this is so important to have angle exactly 30 degr, or 60 or whatever?  What if one holds the graver by hand when sharpening it? I for example sharpen my gravers without any tool that will ensure exact angles, simply holding them with hand.

How much sharpening do you do on flat bench stones nev compared to a diamond wheel and what size grit do you finish at ? I'm finding at 2000 grit the gravers still show some surface graining that is holding back a really crisp clean finish on the steel I'm turning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use almost only tungsten carbide gravers for lathe turning. I form and sharpen them only by diamond disk, dry, mounted on usual bench grinder motor. The disk is 800 grit, the diam. is reduced to 80mm.  No aditional finish needed, good and clean surface and  edges acheeved. It is important that the disk rotates true in plane, which needs some adjustment as the disks are soft and can be bent in needed direction.

For HSS gravers - after grinding by bench grinder with small red color disk for sharpening cainsaw chains ( I don't know what the grit is) I use arcanzas stone for polishing the edges

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

I use almost only tungsten carbide gravers for lathe turning. I form and sharpen them only by diamond disk, dry, mounted on usual bench grinder motor. The disk is 800 grit, the diam. is reduced to 80mm.  No aditional finish needed, good and clean surface and  edges acheeved. It is important that the disk rotates true in plane, which needs some adjustment as the disks are soft and can be bent in needed direction.

For HSS gravers - after grinding by bench grinder with small red color disk for sharpening cainsaw chains ( I don't know what the grit is) I use arcanzas stone for polishing the edges

Happy new year nev. Thanks for that information,  i just need to experiment to get what i need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Jon said:

These are handy if you don't get a good result by hand https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/gravers-scorpers-scrapers-deburring/g34925

Finish on Arkansas stone after a 2000 wet and dry to 4000 grit film on a lapping plate. I use a glass lapping plate to get the initial shape and angle. Use plenty of water to make the lapping film last

6mm plate glass as a flat bench lap ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Jon said:

That'll do. Here's a cheap lapping glass plate which will be a lot flatter and give better results. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Veritas-Glass-Lapping-Plate/dp/B07Q58JFV9

You can spend a lot of money on really good quality lapping plates

Thanks Jon,  i have a glass supplier that will freebie me pieces  of 6 or 10mm plate glass or toughen it for just a few quid.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Jon said:

glass plate which will be a lot flatter and give better results

Thanks for all the comments. I agree that the exact dimensions are not critical to the performance of the tool, I was just trying to figure out the best way to get the angle right without making a special tool or manually trying to measure and started to calculate it on a bit of paper and then the engineer in me kicked in and "if you are going to do it, do it right" so I ended up making a spreadsheet, partly just to see if I could and partly for fun. I'll look into the glass plate.

I have now made my gravers, 3 of them; 45°, 30° and 20°. I used 120 grit oil stone to get the general shape, or first cut, which took about 20 mins, then worked up through the grits on diamond sharpening stones to 3000 grit. I then finished off on a hard Arkansas stone for that near-mirror finish, so I would say about 45 mins each in total.

I was thinking about making handles for the gravers much the same as @Dell has, but then decided to use some old pin vices I had kicking around. I have attached the instructions I roughly followed from Sherline, which describes the process for making the gravers and wooden handles, maybe some will find this useful.

gravers.pdf

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here's my first proper post, copied from the one I made on the NAWCC forum last week, so far unanswered. I am working on an antique French carriage timepiece. It's a good make (Hollingue Freres who produced for Drocourt), with lever platform by Joseph Soldano (who also supplied Dent), all freshly overhauled. It runs with a good amplitude at the usual 18000bph. But it gains time massively - about three minutes each hour (that's over an hour per day!). The wheels are all perfect with no damaged or missing teeth and the silvered Soldano platform is almost certainly the original. Now, the escape wheel has 15 teeth and its pinion has 8 leaves - all pretty common. It looks original but in the absence of any other explanation, I'm wondering if it's a replacement and if the original had 15 teeth and seven leaves. If I were to change the platform for one with an escape wheel with 7 leaves, it would obviously run slower while maintaining the 18000bph, but how much slower? Is it a simple math question of seven-eighths as fast as the current one with 8 leaves? 63mins x 7/8 = 55mins would mean it's far too slow. What am I missing here? @nickelsilver
    • If anyone can help he out with a repivot please DM me and we can talk.
    • Hello WRT members my name is Willem I am from the Netherlands I haven’t been around a lot on the forum but did asked some advice in the past which helped me a lot. I started 4 years ago with a seiko 5m42-0e69 I inherited from my father. I could wair it because the bracelet was to small. Seiko did not had spare rubber inserts any more so I had to find donor watches but unfortunately also these rubber bands didn’t last long so had to find another I but this seems to be a original SLQ003 watch strap full length and uncut also found out this strap isn’t produced anymore. Than I came to the idea to find someone who can 3D print the straps and it work out well for me and than the journey began for me.  This first picture is how I started 4 years ago.  I ended up like this. I found all the 0e60/69 different faces and than started to collect all the different 0e39 faces. So now I can close this chapter.  From another angle.  Not all the faces are shown in 1998 catalog  Here you can see all different faces.  I will show you later on my watches one by one Here’s is my fathers watch with the printed strap Than I started to experiment with colors.  This one bought because off the bracelet but unfortunately broke so I gave it a new color 
    • As requested - tricky to get a clear image of the holes, but you get the idea. Notice the new crystal, another first for me, it's amazing what a new crystal does for an old watch!   Oh, and the other bit I'm proud of from an 80y old watch:   And photos of the movement too if interested...
×
×
  • Create New...