Jump to content

Wittnauer watch timing


Recommended Posts

Hello,

I have a vintage Wittnauer automatic that is running fast.  I took it to my watch guy but he said it wasn’t worth fixing as it had sentimental value only. It’s only a few minutes fast per day so I’m wondering if there is anything I could do, given limited knowledge and tools.

Thoughts?

IMG_0198.jpeg

IMG_0197.jpeg

IMG_0196.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 A few minutes fast is usually due issue with the hairspring, dirty, magnetised, any issue that shortenes the working length of  hairspring. 

Auto bridge must be taken out to remove cock- balance assembly, then there is a good chance cleaning hairspring would suffice. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Without removing any components there are a few things you could try. The first is to adjust the timing using the adjustment arm (see picture below), you need to make very very small adjustments and be careful as the very fine (hair spring) below the arm which is very easily damaged if you slip - think brain surgery style changes and caution!

These changes are usually made using a timegrapher machine, but can be done without one by making incremental changes and then synchronizing the watch with your phone clock and then compare where it is after several hours or a day until you finally home in on the correct setting, a long process, but you should get there in the end.

IMG_0196.jpeg.0002a20e4bf0b50f2e4c09ee5210df6aSW.jpg.62b176e9c9965979dfdacee010f769ff.jpg

Often a fast running watch is often symptomatic of magnetism, so you can also, in addition to the above, see if you can get your watch demagnetized - unfortunately this is done using a specific device, but you don't even need to take the back off the watch and takes literally seconds. Your watchmaker should have one of these devices and shouldn't charge to do this, or charge less than the equivalent of a battery change at most.

For the sake of completeness, if the watch is in need of a service, the above steps may only buy you time as the watch performance will eventually begin to suffer again. Looking at the pictures, the watch movement doesn't look too bad, so you may be able to squeeze a few years out of it... but its impossible to be sure by just looking at pictures.

Let us know how you get on 🙂

 

Edited by Waggy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @dibs1 Hopefully you see this and post an update. @Knebo Would you happen to know what is the end-shake tolerance for a cal 15xx rotor or is there such a metric? Also, is there a specified height of the rotor?   I got the watch serviced which addressed the rotor grinding against the base plate and case back (i have checked by moving the watch in a circular motion to spin the rotor and have tested it dial up and down) however whenever the watch is shaken lightly the rotor touches the caseback and makes a ding. What is unusual is that is only happens when the rotor is resting at the 9'o clock position. The axle was replaced and reading around it seems that  spring clip, jewel and axel are the three parts that individually or together are causing this issue.
    • Yes, barrel size.  A 11mm spring will push out into a 11mm barrel, no need to go 0.5mm smaller. 
    • Hello All, I’m looking for advice about how to interpret the mainspring specs described in the GR documents and in the catalogues of online sellers such as cousins.  My problem relates to interpreting the value describing barrel size - I’m unsure what the last number REALLY refers to.   For example: 1.10x.0105x360x11  (This refers to GR2628-X) Does the “ 11 “ here refer to the barrel inside diameter of the calibre OR to the diameter of the wound mainspring before insertion? For example if my measured barrel inside diameter to 11mm, I would normally select a wound spring size a little smaller, say 10.5, wouldn’t I?  Or, does the barrel diameter described in the catalogue specifications take that into account and I would therefore order a catalogue size 11 for an 11mm barrel ID? Hope this makes sense. I can’t find clarification of this anywhere. Many thanks for any enlightenment. Cheers, John
    • Let's say, like in a watch, you have  a 70 tooth 4th wheel, which needs to make a turn in one minute, with an 18,000 beat escapement. 15 tooth escape wheel as usual, and a 7 tooth pinion on it.   70 x 15 x 2 /  = 300  That's 300 beats, and there are 5 beats per second, so divide and you get 60s, one minute- all is well. If we do 70 x 15 x 2 / 8 that equals 262.5. With an 18K balance, which will let the escape wheel move one turn in 6 seconds, the 4th wheel will have made like 1.14 turns. So the time display is running fast. But this comes to like 7.5 seconds over per minute, which is about double your gain (maybe I'm wrong- I'm mathing on my phone while writing on my phone 😄) but pretty sure the gain is more than you are observing.   A possible culprit is that crown/4th wheel isn't running true, and a tooth is slipping past a pinion leaf once per revolution. I've seen this. If the platform is original and it's a nice piece they are often pinned, so the depthing isn't an issue. If the platform isn't pinned, check the depthing. And at any rate check the crown wheel between centeres and make sure the teeth are running true.
    • Fast responses - thank you. Yes, I mentioned the 18000bph to illustrate that it's not a matter of touching coils, over banking, shortened hairspring etc. I even took off the platform and temporarily fitted a another NOS one also with 8 leaves and beating 18000 but the colossal gain is the same. I'm resigned to buying and fitting a new Gorge platform plus a 7 leaf pinion escape wheel but only if I think it will work; otherwise it's a waste of £200 and a couple of hours work. Hence the underlying question is: all other things being equal, what would the timekeeping effect be? Is it a simple 7/8ths as fast? Logic tells me it is but can it be that linear?
×
×
  • Create New...