Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

What's under the big bridge with the Omega symbol?  

Don't think I've ever seen such a large omega symbol but that would be to tell you it's an Omega watch.

Then this reminds me of a watch in the discussion somewhere else in the universe except it seems to missing the automatic perhaps? As I thought it was this watch

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_1020

It doesn't match the early version but I'm giving you this because where have we seen that big omega symbol before

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_1000

Probably this which is really similar to attend 20 anyway

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_1010

Not a very good pictures in the service bulletin of the weird arrangement for the gears has to do with the automatic winding which seems to be missing from your watch on eBay. That's obviously why there's a recess in the middle of it that's were some of the automatic would've gone. At least that's my guess. As it wouldn't be any need to the peculiar wheel arrangement for a non-automatic watch.

 

 

 

 

 

214_Omega1010,1011,1012,1020,1021,1022.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Looks like a 1030. I serviced one in an Omega Geneve and it had the large logo. It's the bit that covers up where the auto works goes.

 

 

image2.jpeg

Edited by SpringMangler
  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, SpringMangler said:

Looks like a 1030. I serviced one in an Omega Geneve and it had the large logo. It's the bit that covers up where the auto works goes.

 

 

image2.jpeg

What's under the large bridge with the logo? 

Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

What's under the large bridge with the logo? 

Nothing 🙂 You can see above where the barrel sits that it's just an empty space. On the auto movement it's where the automatic works sits. One screw holds holds it in place.

 

Edited by SpringMangler
  • Like 1
Posted
45 minutes ago, SpringMangler said:

ooks like a 1030. I serviced one in an Omega Geneve and it had the large logo. It's the bit that covers up where the auto works goes.

Looks like I need to improve my reading skills normally I think of a base caliber is a manual wind and in the automatic comes but it looks like Omega did the opposite the manual wind is at the bottom of the list and it does match the 1030

image.png.65773ffd4801373e75d13b0b0718f435.png

So basically what they did is take the automatic movement remove the automatic and put a plate the cover up where the automatic watch it. Which still seems a little strange but it's what they did

Oh and we do get an answer for something parts list attached where have I seen apart with a big omega symbol like that before?

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&Omega_1030

image.png.650d843240f699d3bfe0e8fe580488d6.png

Omega 1030 424_1030_1_2250.pdf

  • Like 2
Posted

The other pain is that the auto movement supports the seconds pinion but the manual movement has no support and you have to use a staking tool or similar support when putting on the seconds hand.

It's a design of compromise, not efficiency.

  • Sad 1
Posted (edited)

The attached picture (not mine) should show it. The other thing with this movement is it has the smallest bridge screws I've come across on this size of movement. Pain in the arse.

 

 

movement.jpg

Edited by SpringMangler
  • Like 1
Posted

I've just finished an Omega last night for my son to gift to his girlfriend for Christmas - long story, anyway he owes me big now! Just a reminder that the Omega screws as well as being small also have tight (slim) screw slots, so you will need to keep your screwdrivers extra sharp and dressed or you will spin out and damage the copper finish. The copper finish will scratch even if you look at it the wrong way. I used all brass tweezers last night instead of my usual titanium ones.

PS

I'm calling it a 'copper finish' for expediency, although I'm not sure exactly what it is, maybe butterfly wings judging on how fragile it is 🤣

  • Haha 1
Posted
8 hours ago, SpringMangler said:

The other pain is that the auto movement supports the seconds pinion but the manual movement has no support and you have to use a staking tool or similar support when putting on the seconds hand.

It's a design of compromise, not efficiency.

I'm afraid it's wishful thinking if the automatic was supporting for putting the second hand on. This movement has a lot of very peculiar things which may or may not be specified in the vintage technical service guide. So Omega had a supplemental guide of general instructions specific for this grouping of calibers. For instance special tools special tool just to put the mainspring in and special movement holder for putting the second hand on all of the family of calibers because when you put a the second hand on you probably don't actually have the automatic on and it doesn't really support anyway

image.png.5ec4ad75487ccdb9f620374f088a6c8c.png

 

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Since I've learned lots here I thought I'd share a tip I picked up elsewhere and put to the test... For that 6105/6309 bezel lume pip look I've punched a clear plastic bottle of water, sanded it for the frost effect, removed the (smaller) pip from a standard/cheap replacement bezel, drilled it out to 2.5mm and fitted it using a smaller punch - fresh lume to hold into place.  Pressing into place is a bit awkward but you soon get the hang of it, and the end result is pretty decent I'd say... The worst part probably being the drilling rather than the pip!   
    • Ive asked this at a Seiko forum but I know there's plenty of experience here too...   As I have it the recently discovered servicing technique on these is that you stuff the crown full of gaskets and work it until the recessed washer pops, remove the washer, switch the gasket out, dish the washer and push it back into place, levelling out the washer in the process? First attempt did not go to plan... I tried using a plastic pusher to manipulate the gaskets in the crown... Wasn't strong enough and I was struggling to even get the gaskets in up until it broke.   Rethink consists of making/using actual tools: I don't have a staking set, so I've got the old man fashioning a metal pusher, essentially a 2.45mm OD tube with 1.6mm ID with a 6mm press the other end. Also got him on a dishing block/conical stake (sorry I'm terrible with terms) and a holder for the crown while I'm working on it...   I figure that's enough to do the process described above? Push with the metal pusher, dish the washer with the conical stake, press back in with wider flat press (drilled centre so it doesn't catch on the tap).    Plan is to stuff, press by hand and repeat? If that doesn't work by hand I've a drill press I could attach the pusher to for a little more leverage if needed. (Obviously I don't want to go too mad with that, and hopefully can avoid it altogether...)   Sounds like a plan? I'd welcome any advice here, since I really don't want to wreck a crown. Having replaced all the other seals though id really like to sort these too. I welcome any input/advice from those who have been there and done it... Thanks!
    • Hello and welcome to the forum.  Enjoy
    • You need to be more careful modifying the dial area. How does the bezel/lens fit on the front?
    • Recently inherited a box of my Grandfathers watches, nothing valuable, but some cool and some unique items.  Seiko SQ, my aunt went to Hong Kong in the 80's I believe and picked one up for my Dad and Grandpa. Below are picture, I believe its a 1987 5Y22-8A08. Put a new battery in it and it fired right up! Its probably been a drawer for 20+ years. Looks like he only wore it a few times.   Citizen Quartz 46-9181 with a seven jewel 7961B movement. It had what looked like some moisture damage, and a corroded battery. Swapped it with a 371 but it would only vibrate the second hand. Tried trouble shooting while in the case but eventually ended up pulling the movement out and cleaning with some naphtha and blowing it out and running it on the demagnetizer for a while to free up the movement before cleaning the band and case lightly oiling and reassembling everything. Now its back up and running. Based on the adjustment of the band I believe my Grandmother actually wore this watch, and I made the mistake of telling my wife that. Now its her watch! The most interesting so far is a 72-73 Benrus.  I tried putting a battery in it, but no joy. Ran it on my little tester, no signal from the coil, tried to spin it up. Just the slightest flicker of the second hand. Put some naphtha where I could reach, and tried again to spin it up. Nope. This watch is interesting in that it does not look like the back comes off, there is a window you unscrew to access the battery, a huge SR44. Ordered a crystal puller and will begin disassembly next week.  I was able to find a little bit about this watch though a google image search; BENRUS H010 TECHNIQUARTZ 1972 1st US made Quartz made by Benrus. Using a custom E-block with the step Motor, a power switch and a Moto Chip driven by MotoQ at 32KHz, on modified ETA mechanical movement. https://www.crazywatches.pl/benrus-h010-techniquartz-1972  
×
×
  • Create New...