Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all. I inherited a Omega 176.005 with a badly dented and pitted case. I got a hold of a replacement case that is in better cosmetic condition as well as a new set of pushers.

The problem is I can't remove the old pushers from the case as they have been broken off and the splines are completely gone. I bought a screw in pusher fitting & removing tool but without any splines there is no way for it to grab and unscrew them.

Plies were too big to grab them and I couldn't get enough leverage with tweezers. See the pictures below. Any ideas on how to get these off? Any help is appreciated.

case 1.jpg

case 2.jpg

Posted

You first have to determine whether the tubes are screw-in or friction fitted types. Look inside the case to see if there are any signs that the hole is threaded.

If the tube is a screw-in type, wedging in a slightly tapered rod and turning it might work. WD40 and heat will help loosen it. Worse case scenario, you might have to carefully drill/ream/file until the remnant of the tube disintegrates. If the threads end up getting damaged, then you would have to thread the hole for the next bigger size pusher tube.

If the tube is a friction fitted type, there are specialized tools to push it out.

But spending money for an expensive tool for a one-time job doesn't make sense. Consider sending the watch to a competent watchmaker. 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/pusher-pendant-tube-fitting-removing-press-horotec-swiss

 

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Try heating the case to break any threadlocker, followed by soaking in Coca-Cola for 24 hrs. You can buy micro screw extractors or shape an old screwdriver into a  wedge shape. 

 

2 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

You first have to determine whether the tubes are screw-in or friction fitted types. Look inside the case to see if there are any signs that the hole is threaded.

If the tube is a screw-in type, wedging in a slightly tapered rod and turning it might work. WD40 and heat will help loosen it. Worse case scenario, you might have to carefully drill/ream/file until the remnant of the tube disintegrates. If the threads end up getting damaged, then you would have to thread the hole for the next bigger size pusher tube.

If the tube is a friction fitted type, there are specialized tools to push it out.

But spending money for an expensive tool for a one-time job doesn't make sense. Consider sending the watch to a competent watchmaker. 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/pusher-pendant-tube-fitting-removing-press-horotec-swiss

 

Thanks for the replies. The tubes are definitely the screw-in type. Any recommendation on the best way to apply the heat? Should I stick the whole thing in the oven or do I want to apply it locally at the tubes? Thanks.

Posted

I usually use a butane microtorch for heating seized screws.

Depending on the type of threadlocker used, sometimes the parts need to be heated to 150°C before the bond is weakened. 

Before applying heat, make sure that any heat sensitive parts are removed, like orings, gaskets, etc.

Although it might have a right hand thread, it usually helps to turn the part in both directions to break the adhesive bonds.

  • Like 3
Posted

invest in some cutting broaches, they have a slight taper and the 5 sides are sharp and will dig into the side of the pusher, remove in a counter clockwise direction in case the pusher is threaded, if not threaded it does not matter which direction, I use a heat gun to heat stubborn pieces that are locktited in, if still will not come out the broach can cut the majority out so a threaded tap can be used to clean and straighten the original threads in the case head, one could make an easy 4-sided tapered broach from a proper sized length of steel.....

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome to the forum.  Enjoy
    • You need to be more careful modifying the dial area. How does the bezel/lens fit on the front?
    • Recently inherited a box of my Grandfathers watches, nothing valuable, but some cool and some unique items.  Seiko SQ, my aunt went to Hong Kong in the 80's I believe and picked one up for my Dad and Grandpa. Below are picture, I believe its a 1987 5Y22-8A08. Put a new battery in it and it fired right up! Its probably been a drawer for 20+ years. Looks like he only wore it a few times.   Citizen Quartz 46-9181 with a seven jewel 7961B movement. It had what looked like some moisture damage, and a corroded battery. Swapped it with a 371 but it would only vibrate the second hand. Tried trouble shooting while in the case but eventually ended up pulling the movement out and cleaning with some naphtha and blowing it out and running it on the demagnetizer for a while to free up the movement before cleaning the band and case lightly oiling and reassembling everything. Now its back up and running. Based on the adjustment of the band I believe my Grandmother actually wore this watch, and I made the mistake of telling my wife that. Now its her watch! The most interesting so far is a 72-73 Benrus.  I tried putting a battery in it, but no joy. Ran it on my little tester, no signal from the coil, tried to spin it up. Just the slightest flicker of the second hand. Put some naphtha where I could reach, and tried again to spin it up. Nope. This watch is interesting in that it does not look like the back comes off, there is a window you unscrew to access the battery, a huge SR44. Ordered a crystal puller and will begin disassembly next week.  I was able to find a little bit about this watch though a google image search; BENRUS H010 TECHNIQUARTZ 1972 1st US made Quartz made by Benrus. Using a custom E-block with the step Motor, a power switch and a Moto Chip driven by MotoQ at 32KHz, on modified ETA mechanical movement. https://www.crazywatches.pl/benrus-h010-techniquartz-1972  
    • It’s done and the movement feats/aligns perfectly in the case. I stripped off 10mm wide sandpaper and wrapped /sticked it around the pad with double sided tape. I run with 400 grit and finished with 1000 grit. Now I can continue with my build, I’m going to buy a dial and hands. The dial I am considering is a larger diameter 36.5mm than the allotted space 35mm in the case, so I will apply the same ‘technique’ with sandpaper and Dremel/drill. Thank you @RichardHarris123, @AndyGSi and watchrepairtalk community for your help.    
    • As you're in the UK I suggest you look at Cousins for screwdriver sets as they've never cause me any problems. The key is the right blade, dressed correctly to suit the screw. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/cousins-swiss-style-sets-rotating-stands https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/value-screwdriver-sets-wooden-cases https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/cousins-swiss-style-flat-stainless-steel
×
×
  • Create New...