Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone!

My Omega cal 601 has been cleaned and lubricated, works fine with good beat, amplitude around 210 (~190-220) and decent rate (-10).

however it stops before the total expected power reserve like 30h running back again after a moving a little to wake up the balance  (not shaking).

Wouldld it be a tired mainspring or this is something else?

 

 

IMG_0404.jpeg

Posted

In my experience low amplitude and short power reserve is never a tired mainspring. Even blue steel ones. It could be that someone bodged in an actual weaker (thinner) spring that was on hand in the past to get it going and out the door, but if the length is correct- i.e. when you wind from fully unwound you should see about 6 to 6 1/2 turns of the ratchet wheel, it should still hit the power reserve or close to it. My guess is there are other issues causing the low amplitude and eventually the short power reserve.

  • Like 1
Posted
26 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

In my experience low amplitude and short power reserve is never a tired mainspring. Even blue steel ones. It could be that someone bodged in an actual weaker (thinner) spring that was on hand in the past to get it going and out the door, but if the length is correct- i.e. when you wind from fully unwound you should see about 6 to 6 1/2 turns of the ratchet wheel, it should still hit the power reserve or close to it. My guess is there are other issues causing the low amplitude and eventually the short power reserve.

Actually it stops with power reserve remaining. I just lift it or move incircle and it runs again afteraround 30h

Posted
2 minutes ago, brunomartins said:

Actually it stops with power reserve remaining. I just lift it or move incircle and it runs again afteraround 30h

Right- that indicates that there are other issues. What lift angle are you using on your machine? It should be 49 degrees; if you are set to 52 (I think that's the default on the Chinese machines) you will see your amplitude go further down when set to 49. But even at around 210, that is far to low to be considered healthy.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Right- that indicates that there are other issues. What lift angle are you using on your machine? It should be 49 degrees; if you are set to 52 (I think that's the default on the Chinese machines) you will see your amplitude go further down when set to 49. But even at around 210, that is far to low to be considered healthy.

I set 49 and the amplitude had almost no variation. In fact this amplitude is low, would it cause a stopping issue?

Posted
6 hours ago, brunomartins said:

amplitude around 210 (~190-220)

5 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

But even at around 210, that is far to low to be considered healthy.

1 hour ago, brunomartins said:

I set 49 and the amplitude had almost no variation. In fact this amplitude is low, would it cause a stopping issue?

One of the problems with amplitude is typically measured when the watches fully wound up and as nice as that is that's not overly helpful. What is it like 24 hours later? A lot of it depends upon the watch some watches are relatively linear until the very end others will start off really high and slowly taper down just depends upon the watch. Usually watch companies could care less about amplitude fully wound up they only care about timekeeping an amplitude 24 hours later. Omega is interesting in that some of their watches they can be happy if the amplitude is lower but of course it still has to keep time and run the required amount of time

so for instance Omega specs for your watch is

image.png.82c326bd542d6068ef88eb6646367f87.png

Now the reference to 24 hours is actually specified as this

image.png.2232b9b03577b470fc22b73685793672.png

So at 24 hours your watch should still be running and the amplitude should be at least 160°.

6 hours ago, brunomartins said:

decent rate (-10).

Then your definition of a decent rate does not fit with what Omega thinks. Typically watch companies do not like negative numbers so as you can see they would tolerate a negative one second all the way to +16 with a target of eight seconds plus not negative. The timekeeping isn't quite right

 

6 hours ago, brunomartins said:

Wouldld it be a tired mainspring

If you service the watch what did the mainspring look like? Usually even set Common with blued steel mainsprings when wound up really nice and tight or fully wound up still can produce decent amplitude typically they just won't run forever the amplitude will usually drop off. Very common with blued steel mainsprings but your servicing the watch what did the mainspring look like?

I don't suppose we can have a picture of the timing machine results a lot of times we might see something in the image you don't. Then just some minor specifications for timing for instance you wind up the watch nice and tight and wait at least 30 minutes and maybe a picture of the timing crown down

image.png.c50650221e1508d247828c7c9d226d20.png

Then 24 hours later you can do the same thing and we can see how it looks.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
42 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

One of the problems with amplitude is typically measured when the watches fully wound up and as nice as that is that's not overly helpful. What is it like 24 hours later? A lot of it depends upon the watch some watches are relatively linear until the very end others will start off really high and slowly taper down just depends upon the watch. Usually watch companies could care less about amplitude fully wound up they only care about timekeeping an amplitude 24 hours later. Omega is interesting in that some of their watches they can be happy if the amplitude is lower but of course it still has to keep time and run the required amount of time

so for instance Omega specs for your watch is

image.png.82c326bd542d6068ef88eb6646367f87.png

Now the reference to 24 hours is actually specified as this

image.png.2232b9b03577b470fc22b73685793672.png

So at 24 hours your watch should still be running and the amplitude should be at least 160°.

Then your definition of a decent rate does not fit with what Omega thinks. Typically watch companies do not like negative numbers so as you can see they would tolerate a negative one second all the way to +16 with a target of eight seconds plus not negative. The timekeeping isn't quite right

 

If you service the watch what did the mainspring look like? Usually even set Common with blued steel mainsprings when wound up really nice and tight or fully wound up still can produce decent amplitude typically they just won't run forever the amplitude will usually drop off. Very common with blued steel mainsprings but your servicing the watch what did the mainspring look like?

I don't suppose we can have a picture of the timing machine results a lot of times we might see something in the image you don't. Then just some minor specifications for timing for instance you wind up the watch nice and tight and wait at least 30 minutes and maybe a picture of the timing crown down

image.png.c50650221e1508d247828c7c9d226d20.png

Then 24 hours later you can do the same thing and we can see how it looks.

 

What a helpful text. Thanks!

Definitely the mainspring is not at its best shape. I mean it has some small dented parts, I tried my best to put in good shape and lub with 8200. 
 

regarding the 24h amplitude I will check it out for sure

Posted
7 minutes ago, brunomartins said:

Definitely the mainspring is not at its best shape. I mean it has some small dented parts

In a watch all the components more most of them have to function within specifications. If your mainspring isn't functioning correctly as you can see it's going to ripple down affect everything else. What's interesting with Omega is they have a guide for recycling a mainspring as they call it. The mainspring in this case is for an automatic watch little different than yours but the principles apply. What's interesting is if you are working on a Swatch group service center they don't even do this they just replace the entire mainspring barrel because they have an infinite supply of These.

Here's a little section on the mainspring you don't have the bridal parts you can skip that. Notice step number five the mainspring should feel smooth and by the way when you're all through with this you're supposed to wipe it off with the lip free cloth before you inserted him. So in a dance imperfections and other stuff will cause the mainspring not the slide very well at all causes a heck of a lot of pressure in the barrel and if it doesn't slide right well you get no power in you definitely don't run for the required length of time as you're finding out. Based on your description I would purchase a brand-new mainspring as there's no way to fix this.

 

image.png.1cd8220da55734f1f4b9cb9adb316b2a.png

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi everyone!

just came to some updates.

I notice there’s a specific moment the watch stops (hour, minutes and second always same positions).

it seems it’s not (or not only) the mainspring, maybe something else.

this time position (image attached) the watch stops and runs again after some making some moves to wake up 

 

image.jpg

Posted
5 minutes ago, brunomartins said:

I notice there’s a specific moment the watch stops (hour, minutes and second always same positions).

stopping the same place every time is always good versus random which becomes very very difficult to find

if the picture is of the watch stopped looks like the secondhand may be touching the minute hand. Occasionally you'll find that the spacing of the hands on one side of the dial are greater than the other side which should be but sometimes it is

  • Like 2
Posted
On 10/31/2023 at 5:02 PM, JohnR725 said:

stopping the same place every time is always good versus random which becomes very very difficult to find

if the picture is of the watch stopped looks like the secondhand may be touching the minute hand. Occasionally you'll find that the spacing of the hands on one side of the dial are greater than the other side which should be but sometimes it is

I managed to fix the second hand properly and it the issue has not appered again. Thanks

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi, this is the first place I found when looking for advice so I hope someone could advise me.  Im completely new to touching watches but I’ve always wondered how they work.  I’ve bought a cheap movement, an ETA replica to take apart and rebuild.  Im thinking I’ll need some screwdrivers, tweezers, movement holder and a loop? My goal is just to have a go first and see if I enjoy it enough before buying more tools.  Do I buy cheap tools for now and get better quality tools later if I enjoy it like I think I will? or will the cheap tools be a pain and take some of the fun out of it?  With quality tools being relatively expensive I’m unsure what to buy.    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
    • Yeah I have seen 44-56 documented for Elgin 18 size elsewhere. I have the style of gauge that's like a set of feeler gauges and I never noticed before today it is faintly stamped "Elgin". Pictured is the way I have been measuring. I am going to go to a larger jewel than the 42 that had been in there. I recently won an auction on a big set of Fitrite jewels all in the little bottles, to discover that the what's actually in the bottles bears no relation to the chart of sizes printed on the box. In most cases it seems to be all mixed so in fact I have about 24 little bottles and thousands of assorted jewels of all diameters and lengths, which is better than nothing. But since I don't have a micrometer with a table, measuring for the exact diameter will be a big job. Instead I will test a lot of them in the fork slot the same way I measure with the gauge. But this is still the next thing. I have to get the escapement to unlock first.
    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
    • A few things you should find out before you can mske a decision of what to do. As Richard said, what is the crown and all of the crown components made of . Then also the stem .  The crown looks to have a steel washer that retains a gasket. So be careful with what chemicals you use to dissolve any stem adhesives or the use of heat. You might swell or melt the gasket unless you are prepared to change that also . The steel washer maybe reactive to alum. Something I've just used to dissolve a broken screw from a plate. First drilled out the centre of the screw with a 0.5mm carbide . Dipped only the section that held the broken screw in Rustins rust remover. This is 40 % phosphoric acid. 3 days and the screw remains were completely dissolved, no trace of steel in the brass threads. A black puddle left in the solution.
    • I suppose this will add to the confusion I have a roller jewel assortment. It lists out American pocket watches for Elgin 18 size and even 16 size it's a 50. But not all the various companies used 50-50 does seem to be common one company had a 51 and the smallest is 43. American parts are always interesting? Francis Elgin for mainsprings will tell you the thickness of the spring other companies will not even though the spring for the same number could come in a variety of thicknesses. But if we actually had the model number of your watch we would find it probably makes a reference that the roller jewel came in different dimensions. So overlook the parts book we find that? So it appears to be 18 and 16 size would be the same sort of the arson different catalog numbers and as I said we don't have your Mongol know which Log number were supposed to be using. Variety of materials garnered her sapphire single or double but zero mention about diameters. Then in a section of rollers in this case rollers with jewels we do get this down in the notes section Roller specifications but of course zero reference to the jewel size. I was really hoping the roller jewel assortment would give us sizes it doesn't really. But it does show a picture of how one particular roller jewel gauge is used  
×
×
  • Create New...