Jump to content

Punches for bushing in clocks

Michael1962

By Michael1962
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

Michael1962 Distinguished Member

Michael1962

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

Labanda over here have two punch sets that are in their clock tools section. The first they call a closing punch set. I am not sure of what they are for, but if it is what I think, I do not think that I will spend money to get them. The other set are various sizes and end profiles, but all of them are too large for riveting some bushes in clocks that I have. The smallest ID of one of these punches is only 0.25mm smaller than the entire oil sink hole in the old Enfield clock that I got from Darwin. And that hole has already been bushed. The repair is as obvious as. No effort has been made to make the repair invisible.

I can only presume that these punches may be for setting gears on pinions if they are made from scratch or repaired.

So my question is, where do I get punches that will be small enough to rivet some of the bushes that I will need to be making to learn this task? Do I need to get myself a watch staking set to get small enough, or do I need to machine them myself from steel round on my lathe? That may be the easy option as I can then make them only as I need them to whatever size I need at the time. Bit of engraving with the Dremel and eventually make my own set. Custom making my own staking block would not be hard either. I also did a search online and came up with the same set that Labanda has. If anyone wants to have a look, the website is www.labanda.com.au and the SKU for them is T-292.

Here is the sizes that Labanda sent to me after measuring them.

The measurements are as follows

1- ID: 4.85mm OD: 9.5mm

2- ID: 4.6mm OD: 9.5mm

3- ID: 4.9mm OD: 9.5mm

4- ID: 4.5mm OD: 9.5mm

5- ID: 4.25mm OD: 9.5mm

6- ID: 4.2mm OD: 9.5mm

7- ID: 2.9mm OD: 9.5mm

8- ID: 2.8mm OD: 6.35mm

9- ID: 3.3mm OD: 6.35mm

10- ID: 2.6mm OD: 6.35mm

11- ID: 2.35mm OD: 6.35mm

12- ID: 1.9mm OD: 4.25mm

13- ID: 1.7mm OD: 4.15mm

14- ID: 1.5mm OD: 4.2mm

15- ID: 3.6mm OD: 7.6mm with centering tool 

16- ID: 1.7mm OD: 5.05mm with centering tool 

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Hello my friend. You don't need any of them. If you have  a watch staking set that will do the trick, you can use the punches from that. you should never try to close a hole that is what was done way back in time, riveting a bush is also old practice, we don't do that anymore. You open up the hole by the means of reamers or  broaches. 

Michael1962 Distinguished Member

Michael1962

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hi @oldhippy. So are you just relying on friction between the bush and the movement plate to hold the new bush in place?

That would mean getting the taper between the bush and the reamer or broach used on the hole to be exactly the same angle.

Edited by Michael1962
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Yes that is correct it is not as difficult as it seams. the bush should be able to just fit in the hole and with a few taps of a small hammer it should fit tight in the hole, you might need a flat end punch to make sure it is flush with the plate, using a punch will make sure you do not bruise the plate.  Reamers  broaches   and bushes are all slightly tapered.  

  • Like 1
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

I always turned mine as well. I found you can get a better fit with height and width, it saves reaming out too much brass and as for the height you can get a better oil well so it all matches in. 

Michael1962 Distinguished Member

Michael1962

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Am I understanding you correctly @oldhippy, that the bush you put in is essentially a bigger diameter than what the original oil well was? And that it is the same height as the movement plate being bushed is thick?

Hope that makes sense.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted (edited)

By making your own bush you can turn and make the oil sink so it is a good fit to the original oil sink by doing so you will find you do not need to make much of an alteration for it to match.  

Edited by oldhippy

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • mbwatch
      Photos of your youth

      By mbwatch · Posted

      My profile photo is age 20, last century, but I still look exactly the same so I'm not sure it counts ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    • JseTay
      Lathe motor advice

      By JseTay · Posted

      I sure appreciate your comment! I will look into one of those or maybe something similar. I of course will check your video to have a better idea.  by the way, that’s a beautiful lathe! Mine is a little peersless, but I just bought a Boley & Leinen that is on its way. That’s the one I am looking a motor for. It comes with a motor, but I want to replace it for  one that has a speed controller.
    • LittleWatchShop
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      Indeed. I would not attempt one. Here is my messy Sherline setup
    • TomL
      Intro

      By TomL · Posted

      Hello everyone my name is Tom and I and I am new to the forum and new to the hobby. I have always had an interest in mechanical watches and finally decided to pursue it. I’m going thru online trading and have purchased the basic tools to set up a work area. I’m really looking forward to learning and thank you in advance for all of your knowledge!
    • JohnR725
      Etachron regulation system

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      This conversation is becoming a very confusing. The etachron system is a very nice system for manufacturing watches. As you know it consists of two components the stud and the regulator pins. Beautiful thing of this system is you can open up your regulator pins center the hairspring and as you close the pins they will close equally on both sides providing you centered it in the first place. It's not like you're going to become closer to one side or the other as the definition of the regulator pins is a bit confusing it's not exactly a slot sort of. I'm thinking maybe a little eight reading will be helpful for you. Then the file name was changed by me at the US patent but the wording of Seiko may or may not actually be attached to it soared up? I just did that so I can find it in my files. Normally patents are in people's name if they work for a company the company name will be there you'll notice the person lives in Japan which is interesting as the name would imply that this is a Swiss product. Somewhere I think I have the patents for the stud and I believe that is Swiss like a lot of things their Japanese and Swiss and then the Japanese let the Swiss name stand as it seems you more popular in case as you read up on the patents of the regulator pins or pin will see and it should explain exactly how and why it works also why it's important to always close at an open in specific directions because the pins actually have a shaped to them it's very hard to see the shape as it's very tiny.   As a reminder with this system it's mass-produced. I wouldn't be at all surprised if they use cameras and computers to do all of the adjustments.  The meaning of this is that the majority of watches will function as there supposed to and do what they're supposed to do the system will allow us for some minor in tolerance and has more than likely as I said no human hand is ever touched those watches that's the way they left the factory and they work fine. US2007091729A1 seiko etachron.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...