Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm working on a quartz watch marked only as "Swiss Army".  It has a glass crystal that was broken, and I was able to push it out from the back of the case, but now there are many small glass fragments stuck to the case with whatever adhesive was used to hold the crystal.  I'd like some advice on how to clean the case before installing the new crystal.

 

Walt

Posted
36 minutes ago, Walt said:

I'm working on a quartz watch marked only as "Swiss Army".  It has a glass crystal that was broken, and I was able to push it out from the back of the case, but now there are many small glass fragments stuck to the case with whatever adhesive was used to hold the crystal.  I'd like some advice on how to clean the case before installing the new crystal.

 

Walt

A picture would be nice.  Apart from that.  If the case is separate from the movement and you have removed any and all gaskets, soak the case in acetone which will loosen any glue.  Using pegwood or similar, clear away any softened glue and glass.  Then rinse in water followed by a rinse in IPA.  The last IPA rinse may not be necessary, but it drives away the water.

Replace gaskets. Install a new crystal. Reinstall the movement. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Thanks, I'll try acetone; I used lighter fluid but that didn't work. I don't know if you can make out the glass fragments it the upper right of the photo.

Untitled.jpg

Edited by Walt
  • Like 1
Posted

Hi there, I second the advice of @LittleWatchShop most times IPA will work, I usually just use a cotton bud (Q-tip) dipped in IPA and hold it on a small area, then after 30 seconds the glue becomes gummy and can be picked/scraped out with a tooth pick, sometimes you have to go back over the same area a few times. I think acetone would also work but may evaporate too quickly for the method above, also acetone can eat away at plastics in seconds so most of the time I only use it as a last resort. Looking at the picture it looks like there is no plastic to be damaged so you should be OK with acetone if it is all you have, but if you have the option I would try IPA first, and then switch to acetone if the IPA wasn't working.

Once you have removed the glue/glass from the case, I would make sure you give the case and any parts which may have come into contact with the broken glass a really good clean as even a small fragment of glass the size of a grain of salt (or even smaller) can stop your watch dead in its tracks, or any dust could act as an abrasive and lead to excessive wear in any moving parts.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) will dissolve about any adhesive if required. I'd try the above first because I'm sure MEK is not great for health. If nothing else works, saturate cotton ball or similar with MEK and leave in contact with the glue for 15 or 20 minutes. Then peel out softened adhesive with sharp pegwood or toothpick. Use MEK outside and don't get it on any plastics or finished surfaces as it will dissolve these promptly.  Available at hardware stores in USA. 

Posted

Based on other adhesives I have come across in watchmaking, mineral spirits could work as well.  So far, they have dissolved every glue and epoxy I have come across.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I tried pushing to dome the washer in and had no success, but stuffing it full of o-ring gaskets worked much better than I expected. It takes some pressure but not as much as you might imagine, but it does take patience ... and a couple of dozen small gaskets. I used the pendant tube of a watch case to stuff the gaskets in as I didn't have a way to machine a tool to suit.
    • I can't answer your question, sorry, but you probably don't what to transfer the spring to a new wheel. Springs and wheels are paired ("vibrated" together) to get the right timing and transferring the spring to a new wheel is quite likely to see you minutes per day out with no way to correct it. Some may tell you to replace the balance staff, but if you're a beginner you're probably better off sourcing a replacement "balance complete" if you can: staff, roller, wheel and spring already assembled as a unit.
    • I'm sure it's the ancien. My measurements: A = 342. The slight bend in the pivot would make much less than a thousandth of a mm difference to this so I don't think 348 is plausible unless there has been significant wear on the pivots. B is hard to measure without first removing the balance wheel. I measured to the other side of the balance wheel as best I could (263) then subtracted the thickness of the wheel (69) to get 194. This could easily be three or four hundredths out, so 195 looks right. (196 could also be right.) J couldn't be measured. I did my best to measure where the balance wheel has been riveted on and got about 95, so 85 before riveting is plausible. (60 is not.) G again couldn't be measured without first removing the roller. I get 37 where the staff emerges from the roller so 41 at the other end of the taper seems plausible. (43 is also plausible to me.) K = 60. (Definitely larger than 55.)   I've never replaced a balance staff; it'll be a new adventure for me. I'll have to read up on how to maximise my chance of removing the old one without damaging the balance wheel without having access to a lathe. I also need to explore how to remove the roller without damaging it. I won't actually place an order until I've gone through the rest of the movement. With the number of issues I've already found, I'll be amazed if I don't have more surprises in store. There are some watch part suppliers in Australia but nothing like Cousins or Otto Frei or Jules Borel. AllTimeCo is fine for basic parts for modern watches: batteries, bands, some crowns, stems, seals, movements, some tools, etc., but not really anything for vintage watches. Australian Jewellers Supplies is similar. Cousins charges about £9 for shipping to Australia which is about AU$19 and not too bad (considering Australian parcel post is $11) but I still want to minimise the number of times I'm paying it. I need to explore other options closer to home. There may be something in Singapore or China that would have what I want and ship it faster/more economically.  
    • Hi, I just finished the service of a Rolex 3135. Amplitude is great, 295 degrees horizontal after 2 hours and 280 after 12 hours. Vertical positions are 25 degrees down on those. I am however seeing a rate variation with temperature. I have 0 SPD on wrist, say 38 degrees and +7 SPD at 18 degrees room temperature. That equates to +0.35 SPD which is within spec I believe (+-0.5 SPD/ Deg C max). It just seems more than I would expect from such a high quality movement. To put that in context, I see similar rate variation with temperature for a Seiko 7S26. Just wondering what you guys see. Thanks, Steve.
    • For years I've done it the el-cheapo way (read: cleaning by hand). Bought a 2nd Elma S15(H) ultra-sonic, including proper cleaning-fluids (Elma WF Pro (cleaning) & Elma Suprol Pro (rinse)) and entered a complete different cleaning world. These cleaning fluids are none-water based and not that easy to obtain. Initially I bought these fluids in Germany "SKSONIC" (www.sksonic.de) but last year they stopped shipping international. Perhaps they resumed international shipping? You can always ask them. You could also ask @VWatchie, he lives "next-door". As for the fumes; I use the ultra-sonic in my garage, partly for the fumes, but more for our dog ...... he goes "bananas" when I switch on the ultra-sonic. Oh, next on your list (if you consider watch-repair as a long-time hobby), a Microscope (up to 50x is enough).  Pegwood leaves, observed under the microscope that is, whole tree-trunks behind 🫣 Ultra-sonic, in combination with proper cleaning fluids, takes care of the cleaning.
×
×
  • Create New...