Jump to content

The tail end of the curve...


Recommended Posts

First of all, I love this forum.  Below are some thoughts I have been pondering today while I was cursing a Diafix jewel.

When you look at a Gaussian curve, the middle is the mean of the distribution and the tails are where you rarely find an element in the population of that value (whatever et may be, length, weight...).  I would like to draw an analogy to watchmaking and the task of a watchmaker to service a watch to achieve optimal results (the mean of the curve).  Then I want to ponder where on the curve any particular element of the process affects the end result.  Let me contrive some examples to make the point.

Suppose you use the ancient spinning L&R machines.  Where on the curve does the effect of spinning the watch for five minutes vs. four minutes?  Would this have a first-order effect, or would you find that it is way out on the tail of the curve...3 sigma or greater.  This is a qualitative thing I am pondering...and not rigorous analysis...just musing.

How about oil?  A hot topic lately.  Does the choice of oil have a first order effect, or does it lie on in the one sigma range?  I am painting with a broad brush here. 

There are many many other practices that could be pondered and their over effect on the goal of optimum service.

Gloves, or finger cots, or none at all
Cleaning method: spinning, ultrasonic, pegging...
Cleaning solution: formulation, brand, refresh period
Rinsing solution: formulation, brand, refresh period
Cleaning time: time, spinning speed,
Pivot polishing
Oil: type, life on bench, life on shelf, brand
Oil application: amount, which type where, method, pallet fork (oh my)
Hairspring centering
Hairspring planarity
Amplitude
.
.
.

I am an amateur and do not get paid for my work, so maybe I am an outlier (sliding down the tail end of the curve!!) But I ponder these things.

I come from a humble horological household.  My Dad adopted whatever practices he learned back in '47, and ran his business for about 40 years.  I like to think he was successful, yet I am pretty sure he did not spend any time trying to regress to the mean (so to speak).  He ran a retail business where watches came in broken and had to go out working.  He guaranteed his work for one year. He had to send three kids to college.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most things fall on the spectrum of art => science. Brewing kombucha is pretty far on the left, and rocket surgery is pretty far on the right. My take is that watchmaking is fairly unique in that it's simultaneously on both ends of the spectrum. There are parts that are deep on the far right, and parts that are deep on the far left. Things that are on the right hand side of the spectrum, need to be done a particular way very specifically. Things on the left you can do however best suits you for purposes of simplicity, resources, marketing, or what have you. When I see a dozen different options for (pick a thing) with equal claims to success (i.e. cleaning method), it appears clear to me that the position of that element is on the art side. If there's only one way to do something (turning a balance staff), it's clearly on the science side. Most of the things you listed on are the art side of the spectrum. Some things are movement-specific science-side. It's a different take on the curve you invoked, but along the same line of thinking, and how my mind tends to work around these sorts of things.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
    • When can you use a standard crystal to replace one that had a tension ring? The first time I popped a crystal with a tension ring out of a watch I found that I had a suitable sized standard crystal and decided to try that.  It fit nicely and it was hard to see that anything was missing from the watch.  I understand that it probably reduced the water resistance of the watch but since it was an old dress watch it wasn't going for a swim anyway! I have since tried the same thing on another watch and found that the tension ring seemed to have an additional role of holding the dial in place.  With the standard crystal in there the dial and movement falls forward. This means it rattles in the case and falls forward and the hands fowl on the crystal (when the dial is down). Is there a trick I am missing here or does this watch require a special crystal?  I am reluctant to buy an expensive armoured crystal only to find I have the same problem.  
×
×
  • Create New...