If watches could talk - Hilton/Oris military style

[Charette]

Hi all - hope everyone is doing well.

This watch was part of a small package I purchased as a Christmas present for my wife to give me. It came watch only with no crystal. Importantly, the price was right.

I say if watches could talk in the title as this one definitely appears to be well-loved. Don't know what kind of wear would result in the case back looking like it does. The crown is also bent but still works fine.

Instead of stripping the remaining plating and doing some more practice with nickel plating, I opted to leave the case as is, patina and wear in place. I kept the crown for the same reason as a replacement would look out of place I thought.

I saw almost the exact same watch online but with Oris name on the dial, so I imagine Hilton watch was just branding and selling as an importer. My research on the only Hilton Watch Company I could find tells me they were a marketing company out of New York, using parts from a variety of sources.

This sample has an Oris cal 451 inside, 7 jewels.

To note, movement photos are before's. This was the dirtiest watch I have worked on thus far.

After complete I notice I somehow have what looks like hairline shatters in the middle of the new crystal, but they are only visible when looking from an extreme angle. I'm not sure if it came like that or, more likely, I somehow caused it when using my creative press solution to putting it in the bezel. Nothing similar in other crystals I have press fit using the same methods.

Given the style of the watch I was thinking a nato strap but the one on is the only 16mm strap I had with a silver buckle, on hand. I find it difficult to find good variety for 16mm straps.

Thanks for checking out my latest project. I finished up the movement on an old orient before this but the crystal replacement from Perrin did not fit, so had to place an order for the first time from cousins, shipped across the pond. Cousins certainly gives you much more info on the crystals. At Perrin you choose a shape and diameter and they send what they have. In my case I chose a no step but found out only when I received the crystal they are out of no step, so sent me a stepped crystal. I guess that is the nature of old crystals, once they are gone they are gone. The issue in my case though was the crystal they sent being too thick, on the inside diameter.

[rehajm]

The front is lovely but that case back…looks like the kick brake on my skateboard…

How’s the timekeeping? I’m always curious about the economical movements. Sometimes they are very accurate even after all the hard miles…

[Charette]

18 minutes ago, rehajm said:

The front is lovely but that case back…looks like the kick brake on my skateboard…

How’s the timekeeping? I’m always curious about the economical movements. Sometimes they are very accurate even after all the hard miles…

I was able to regulate it to a nice figure when kept flat but it did note it slowed down when in any vertical positions. Made a bit of a tradeoff and sped it up slightly when in a flat position. It has just been today so far that I have been wearing it and it is very good so far. Will have to wait and see. I tend to change my watch every day so I don't feel any longer term affects. No idea what to do on the timegrapher for lift angle on the pin pallet, could not find any info online, but I I think that just affects the amplitude reading?

The only other pin pallet I have worked on previously was an MST 434 in a Medana - only 1 jewel. That watch keeps excellent time.

[rehajm]

The timegraphers have trouble with pin pallets, yes? I’ve had some low amp readings from the Smiths RY and BFG movements I’ve worked on but after regulating they seem fine on the wrist…to a few seconds a day. So long as the lines are straight and steady I suppose…

I saw a post where Doktor Ranfft said he had success with a special German lube he’s used for pin pallet escapements, so I have some on order. I’m curious to see how it performs…