Jump to content

Greetings - Introduction

Popechris

By Popechris
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

Popechris New Member

Popechris

Posted
Posted

Hi All.

I'm happy to join and really happy to find such a great source of information. I like the gratification of solving a problem and seeing something that was nonoperational working.  This is all learning for me.  Any questions I ask are not meant as any sort of challenge – just me trying to understand and learn.

The sum if my experience – In order:

2 nonrunner pocket watches, disassembled & cleaned them, reassembled with no bits left over – pretty sure they’re no more broken than when I started. Also, recognizing that the blown out balance jewels and broken balance staffs are way beyond me.

1 working Hampden that was running better after I finished (timegrapher app)

1 marginally working Waltham that is still marginally working after my ministrations – still trying to figure this one out.

Chris

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • JohnL
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By JohnL · Posted

      Hi all, Might a posit a theory and people can chime in and tell me if I'm barking up the wrong sycamore: If a mainspring is a bit coned and returned to its barrel for reuse, is it less likely to slip when the spring gets to fully wound?  For a bit of background: Slava 2427, barrel walls greased with 8217, six dots evenly spaced around each of the barrel walls, then smeared/ spread along the wall before popping the springs in. 
    • nickelsilver
      How do you thread a screw on the lathe without shearing it off?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      What kind of screwplate are you using? The old Martin ones commonly came in B and L variants. The thread pitch is slightly different between the two, and the full thread diameters tend to be a little off from metric nominal, but the B plates are close enough to metric that they work most of the time. The numbering follows (pretty much) the numbering for stems- at least how stems threads are commonly called out. So a "tap 12" would be 0.70mm. (I can only guess the "tap" size for stems comes from these old plates)   These old plates tend to cut some and also form the thread by displacing metal. I think in part because they are low-tech, and also generally a bit worn. So it's good to start quite undersize with your initial diameter, and work up to something that gives a full thread form. There are variances plate to plate too, most likely a combination of manufacturing differences and wear.   I haven't tried any modern screw plates, I think they are of questionable origin, and even if marked in metric, probably merit some experimentation like the antique ones to find a good starting diameter.    
    • Mark
      Setting Hands On 7750

      By Mark · Posted

      Exactly. As Richard says, all good - I helped you by splitting your comment made on an old topic into a new topic of your own in order to help with clarity 🙂 Welcome to the forum by the way 👍
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting Hands On 7750

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Mark, means he has made this a separate post, he has split it from the old post. You don't need to start a new thread now. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Carriage clock

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      No, my first time. I've watched the video, lets hope it looks as good as yours. 
×
×
  • Create New...