Jump to content

How to Remove This Movement - ST19

mcoulton
 Share

Recommended Posts

mcoulton Watch Enthusiast

mcoulton

Posted
Posted

Hello

I have a watch movement that I believe is removed from the dial side of the watch case and not from the case back side. I want to come firm that this is true and I've included a couple of pictures to illustrate this. Sorry if the light is too bright, but I tried my best to light the movement and case as best as I could.  I've also included a picture of bezal remover. Can you please confirm if this is the correct tool I should use?

 

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. 

120221004121332530.jpg

120221004121651545.jpg

msa07.117.jpg

Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, mcoulton said:

Hello

I have a watch movement that I believe is removed from the dial side of the watch case and not from the case back side. I want to come firm that this is true and I've included a couple of pictures to illustrate this. Sorry if the light is too bright, but I tried my best to light the movement and case as best as I could.  I've also included a picture of bezal remover. Can you please confirm if this is the correct tool I should use?

 

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. 

120221004121332530.jpg

120221004121651545.jpg

msa07.117.jpg

Eyup matey.  Also helpful to know what brand the watch is and the movement maker. 

Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
17 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Eyup matey.  Also helpful to know what brand the watch is and the movement maker. 

 

24 minutes ago, mcoulton said:

Hello

I have a watch movement that I believe is removed from the dial side of the watch case and not from the case back side. I want to come firm that this is true and I've included a couple of pictures to illustrate this. Sorry if the light is too bright, but I tried my best to light the movement and case as best as I could.  I've also included a picture of bezal remover. Can you please confirm if this is the correct tool I should use?

 

Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided. 

120221004121332530.jpg

120221004121651545.jpg

msa07.117.jpg

There does seem to be a reasonable sized gap here to use a case knife. I would be levering on the other side though you have potential here to damage the pushers.

8 minutes ago, mcoulton said:

The brand is the Red Star Men's Chronograph and the movement is Sea-Gull ST 19 (Venus 174 clone)

120221004124452139.jpg

By the simple fact that you have a seperate bezel with the crystal in, does suggest that it could be a front loading movement. 

spectre6000 Distinguished Member

spectre6000

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's a common enough watch, it seems like there'd be a servicing video out there somewhere.

I've entertained taking a swing at one of those (cheapest mechanical chronograph on the market). How do you feel the quality of the case/dial/hands are? I have a decent feel for the movement (parts are not available, so come service time you can very easily be in for a whole new movement), but I feel like the price difference between the cheapest ST(whatever it is) movement and that version of the watch leaves very little for the packaging.

Edited by spectre6000
mcoulton Watch Enthusiast

mcoulton

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The motivation for buying this specific watch was to mirror the movement being used in Level 5 of Mark Lovick tutorials. I didn't want to be left with a working movement and no watch, if that makes sense. When approached from this angle then then it's not a bad deal on aliexpress.com

You get what you pay for and so I'm not being very judgemental of the finish.  I love the clear case back and honestly I was mesmerized for about an hour just seeing how all the parts, gears and hammers worked with each other. Hope this helps.  Take a look at the link. I believe the prices are quoted in Canadian Dollars.

 

 

Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted (edited)
47 minutes ago, mcoulton said:

. I didn't want to be left with a working movement and no watch, if that makes sense

Seems like sound logic mc. At least you have the chance of a usable watch at the end of it.  What you thinking about the case ? Are you working with just loupes. With a microscope and a sharp caseknife you would be able to determine how easy the bezel can be removed. Any tight bezels i remove under a scope , you can easily see them start to give way and can work around the perimeter with much less chance of damage.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Simeon
      Oiling Dubois Depraz chrono module pivots (Omega Speedmaster Reduced)

      By Simeon · Posted

      Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • caseback
      Chinese tools debate

      By caseback · Posted

      He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Malocchio
      Chinese tools debate

      By Malocchio · Posted

      Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Edwinsh21
      Christopher Ward SH21 Winding Rotor Bearing replacement

      By Edwinsh21 · Posted

      Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Dell
      Lathe motor advice

      By Dell · Posted

      Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...