Jump to content

Removing Rust In Place (Prior to Unscrewing)


Gramham

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone,

In an attempt to accumulate some practical Watchmaking skills (and not just constantly talk theory) I want to go about refurbishing three major components in the Winding Work of a Pocket Watch Movement I recently purchased here in Hong Kong, as a practice piece:

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/elgin/23687805

 

The three components in question are:

- Click (or Ratchet Wheel Pawl)
- Ratchet Wheel
- Crown Wheel (or Main Wind Wheel)

Here's a photo of the movement in question, with the components identified:

image.thumb.png.115ac1a1dc94a29d448296c1e4f76097.png

Here's my question:  How do I get the corrosion off the screws prior to unscrewing them?

In a really interesting Verge Movement Restoration video I recently watched, the Watchmaker used "Turpentine Spirits" to loosen rust before taking components apart.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwmzYC0zOF0&t=2m45s


Can my UK brothers help me out?  Is "Turpentine Spirits" the same stuff that we Canadians simply call "Turpentine"...or is it a distillate of our "Turpentine" and something else?

Also, is "Turpentine Spirits" the only solution available, or are there other or better solutions (pardon the pun) that I can use to loosen potentially rust-welded components?

image.png.dafba25aa635ec2bcfd20cdf946220c8.png

If this was a different machine (car, boat, lawnmower) I'd have a bevy of other options...but I'm new to this so I want to be careful and draw on collective experience.

Lastly, this is a very mature site.  If there is already an existing discussion about this, I'd be happy to get just a pointer to it so I can review and not force a re-run of a well-discussed topic.  I'd prefer to draw my own conclusions on my own time in those circumstances, and not waste everyone else's.

Thanks in advance!

g.
----

 

Edited by Gramham
Premature Submission
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The highly respected Dutch watchmaker Kalle Slaap puts a drop of WD40 on the screw and let it soak a while. But seeing the screw heads in your pic I wouldn‘t do anything other than just unscrew.

Edited by Kalanag
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Everyone,

Thanks for all the tips!  I got the wheels off and I have decided to started with the click.

I'm not done yet.  (A) There's still pitting  at 10 O'clock; and (B) I want to dress the screw notch a little bit.

But I thought I'd put a preliminary image up here to just get some fast feedback and I am also trying to remove as little material as possible.  I'm using a dry stone, a pair of utility tweezers and (sometimes) my fingertip to "drag" the parts across the fine side of a Carborundum stone, which I got a long time ago to sharpen my kitchen knives.

image.png.5db577aa41b4cf82e64eb6fae221f479.png

 

Here's the stone...


image.thumb.png.7176b9636f6ab32e064c79d0ebeda368.png


Does anyone have feedback for me?

g.
----

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2022-08-26 Update:

I dare not remove more material from the click, for fear of leaving the screw too proud.

Sadly, I do not have a dressing tool small enough to chamfer the screw notch.

Here's the latest results.  Apologies for the bad focus, I am using my mobile phone to (badly) take 2X photos.

Next steps are:

- A 12-hour bath in some white vinegar to clean corrosion from the back and rim
- A dip in baking soda & water to nullify the acetic acid in the vinegar
- A quick bath in IPA to get rid of any water
- A little blow dry to get rid of any traces

Does anyone with more experience disagree with the above protocol?

image.png.cf29a0fb058a460b7e056d4d56aec0ce.png

 

image.thumb.png.194323c6520f7bed390dc2224b26a210.png

g.

----

Edited by Gramham
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...