Setting lever spring

[Neverenoughwatches]

26 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 

I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size . And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey . First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.

[Waggy]

9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring,

I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.

[AndrewR]

On 4/24/2024 at 5:56 PM, RichardHarris123 said:

Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 

I've something on the US forum about gluing the original to the new plate to help with being a pattern to dile/file too. It would add extra support too.

 

https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/how-to-make-a-click-yoke-spring-materials-methods.79723/post-601433

I'm in a similar position. Not sure I'll find a replacement or donor for this Election 510 so considering making my own. How did your piece end up @Neverenoughwatches?

Edited January 28 by AndrewR

[Neverenoughwatches]

46 minutes ago, AndrewR said:

I've something on the US forum about gluing the original to the new plate to help with being a pattern to dile/file too. It would add extra support too.

 

https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/how-to-make-a-click-yoke-spring-materials-methods.79723/post-601433

I'm in a similar position. Not sure I'll find a replacement or donor for this Election 510 so considering making my own. How did your piece end up @Neverenoughwatches?

Now its been a while since I made this thread and I might need to refresh my memory if you ask me more relevant questions. But the piece ended up fine, just realised why I didn't finish off the thread, my mum had just had a stroke that month and I got very busy looking after her.  But yes it eventually got fitted and works well still , ive just tried it now as i dont think i wore the watch more than once. I've made another 1 since that i turned out much quicker. What do you need to ask young man ? Be careful though I'm in an odd mood and seeing my mum soon so i have to behave before i get there

She still has a good right hook even at 88 today. 

That looks like a nice little simple piece to make , you'll have nae bother with that. 

@AndrewR I had a very quick read through, so to save you faffing around with all the annealing , hardening and tempering business. Cut out the annealing process....which is helpful to shape the part...not entirely needed just helpful in that other tools can be used for shaping. Me and others seemed to find the annealing of steel a bit hit and miss...so to get over that buy steel in its annealed state...shape the part then just the hardening and tempering has to delt with. I can give you a link to the guy I buy from...i tnink it was Cs 75 or 100... cheap as chips stuff. Nickelsilver ...from memory gave us the ok for it and its equivalent steel.

[AndrewR]

Someone pointed me to somewhere that have these so my metal filing days are yet to happen - lol.

I'm sure the time will come!

[AndrewR]

But then I found the shipping cost was €15 for a €6 part, so perhaps I will do some filing after all...

Edited February 17 by AndrewR

[AndyGSi]

45 minutes ago, AndrewR said:

But then I found the shipping cost was €15 for a €6 part, so perhaps I will do some filing after all...

Without going back through the thread what part are you looking for as I've just got a batch of clicks.

Edit

Just realised it's an add-on to someone else's post so can't help.

Edited February 17 by AndyGSi

[AndrewR]

It's a setting lever spring for an Election 501