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Ingersoll Junior Pocket Watch

Bearman
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Bearman WRT Addict

Bearman

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I thought I'd share this as it's now the oldest watch I own which I've managed to get to imperfect perfection. It came to me in a job lot and consider myself lucky to have it come into my possession. With an unmarked crystal, paper dial and still with it bow. only missing it's second hand.

I was surprised to find it wanted to work although only just about, so I thought I'd give it a go. Somewhat nervous as I've never worked on something this old, if my interweb research is correct it dates to around 1910 or thereabouts.

After a lot of deliberation I carefully dismantled it, puzzled as to how to get it out the case and let any remaining power down (interweb helped here with some clues).  I had pictures of the thing exploding in my mind. The rust was tricky to deal with, but it had to go, sadly I lost some of the bluing, but after cleaning (filled with dirt and what appeared to be fine metal swarf) and lubrication things were looking promising.

I stopped myself breaking the tin of Brasso and a bout of polishing frenzy, on basis it took years to look like it does and it's never going to be brand new after 100 years or so. I'm glad I did as the patina feels right. 

It's been running well now keeping time as it should, and actually winds and you can set the hands. On the lookout for a replacement second hand, to finish it off.

Ingersoll rear.jpg

Ingersoll front.jpg

Ingersoll Junior front.jpg

Ingersoll junior back.jpg

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    • RichardHarris123
      Part swapper to part maker

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Why cut the paper, cut a square around the image and grind to it. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I did try that last time Rich , i traced the image from the Bestfit book which is the actual size. But its more difficut to cut the shape from paper than it is to grind the steel to shape. This way is pretty easy and the final shaping is done when fitting the part. There are a couple of things i will do differently next time, clamping the 2 pieces together with a drill press will help to hold while scribing the shape in. This was a bit tricky having only one hole, if using the pins and cork the drill size needs to match the pin diameter so there is no movement at all from the template. This movement hasn't finished frying me yet, damaged thread in the plate crown wheel hole and two rubbed in cracked jewels, thats gonna be much more fun.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      A big thank you.

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      👍 Whats not to follow OH ?  You're every inch a pro and a true gent, i always enjoy reading your answers even some of the clock stuff that i dont have a clue about. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Part swapper to part maker

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Could you print the image either enlarged or reduced to the same size as the actual part and then glue it to the steel. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next is to drill the screwhole this then provides an anchor point so the bridge doesnt slip around while scribing the shape. A cork lid, a pin and a piece of gaffer tape ( 😅 ) keeps it all in place. The hole is measured from the broken part using a hand measuring gauge. Mark the hole, punch it and drill it off to size. The awkward bit is working out where the jumper should be and the detent positions.  I remember watching a youtuber a while back do this with dividers, so i dug out my old school compasses and improvised a little. This bridge only has one hole and to find the detent positions you need two points of reference, so i just worked the second point from one of the corners, hopefully its near enough. Then scribe in the jumper using the two detent positions ( wind and time set ) that were marked and a big picture of the complete spring to look at that helps to give you a feel of where the jumper should be.   
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