Jump to content

The Case of the Battered Rolex


Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Nice job,    I had a Tissot ,which was found in the road after bring run over several times A bit of work and its a working watch,       nobody dismantled it s it was intact but battered so all the parts were there.    

Nice find, which Tissot was it ?
The Rolex wasn't dismantled (Apart from the strap), that was all that was left of it after the crash. My customers father died on the motorbike while wearing it. He wanted it to be restored for obvious reasons.
If anyone knows of a strap for one of these, I know he is on the lookout.
I must admit I was surprised that Rolex wouldn't touch it. This is the 4th one I have had that Rolex wouldn't touch. I have also just had a Tag with a similar story. Very Odd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Must be Rolex week.  I am starting work on a vintage Oyster Perpetual Date.  This thing wears the scuffs and scars of long years of daily use. The customer wanted the case polished up a bit.  Man, Rolex uses some hard, hard stainless steel for their cases.  Made me wonder how the owner was able to leave all these marks on it.

Before me, he'd taken it to a Rolex certified tech, for standard service and case polish.  And they refused, presumably because the cost of service would exceed the perceived monetary value of the watch.  But my customer just wanted his watch serviced and looking nice, and could afford not to quibble about price.  He's old; he's the original owner from day one; he likes this watch.  And if they wouldn't work on it, he'd find someone who would. 

So now I have to get a Rolex case opener (because I have not yet worked on a Rolex; I've mostly been more of a "common man's watch repairman").  The other weird thing is that he also complains that it loses 5 min. per day.  I've been observing it for 3 days now, while finishing other bench work, different positions, even wearing it from time to time, and I've seen no evidence of loss.  It's still keeping up with my "atomic" clock as I type this.

20211023_111205.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Before me, he'd taken it to a Rolex certified tech, for standard service and case polish.  And they refused, presumably because the cost of service would exceed the perceived monetary value of the watch.

Very strange behaviour, surely the least they could do is give a quote. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Plato said:

Very strange behaviour, surely the least they could do is give a quote. 

I thought so too.  I'm guessing there was more to this than what little I heard, but for whatever reason they gave him the brush-off.  So he wanted to see what I could do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, KarlvonKoln said:

Must be Rolex week.  I am starting work on a vintage Oyster Perpetual Date.  This thing wears the scuffs and scars of long years of daily use. The customer wanted the case polished up a bit.  Man, Rolex uses some hard, hard stainless steel for their cases.  Made me wonder how the owner was able to leave all these marks on it.

Before me, he'd taken it to a Rolex certified tech, for standard service and case polish.  And they refused, presumably because the cost of service would exceed the perceived monetary value of the watch.  But my customer just wanted his watch serviced and looking nice, and could afford not to quibble about price.  He's old; he's the original owner from day one; he likes this watch.  And if they wouldn't work on it, he'd find someone who would. 

So now I have to get a Rolex case opener (because I have not yet worked on a Rolex; I've mostly been more of a "common man's watch repairman").  The other weird thing is that he also complains that it loses 5 min. per day.  I've been observing it for 3 days now, while finishing other bench work, different positions, even wearing it from time to time, and I've seen no evidence of loss.  It's still keeping up with my "atomic" clock as I type this.

20211023_111205.jpg

The case openers are less than £20. Mine was a set of six with an adaptor. As soon as I bought it the Rolex's started appearing in my workshop. A very bazar coincidence. I think you have dodged a bullet if you don't have to regulate the timing. It's a bit of a pest as you change it by adjusting the weight screws on the balance wheel. Generally there is only one regulator pin and that is for changing the beet error.
This is quite a good article if you are interested:
https://www.minus4plus6.com/regulation.php
I noticed the steel is generally of a higher quality (I guess you must be paying for something rather than just the name haha), and a bit harder to polish. I always thought this was a good thing as it can give you a bit of an error margin as it's a lot harder to go too far. I generally use a Dremel with these or simular  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223596786388?hash=item340f6832d4:g:1lsAAOSw94ddNXwt
Very good for fine removal of dings and scratches without loosing the sharp edges. Takes a while but the results are stunning.

Edited by Deomandinka
Extra info
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, KarlvonKoln said:

I thought so too.  I'm guessing there was more to this than what little I heard, but for whatever reason they gave him the brush-off.  So he wanted to see what I could do.

Their loss could be your gain, remember to take pictures and post us the results! 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the tips, gents!  I have to agree, with Rolexes the steel does seem harder than most, the edges sharper and more well-defined.  Some of the dings in this one seem a little deeper than I'd have expected, but I will use the information you all have posted and see what I can do for it.  Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...