Jump to content

Old carriage clock with new plattform escapement.


Recommended Posts

Dear all,

I have an old carriage clock where it's original cylinder plattform escapement is very worn. The balance spring is rust covered, the cylinder is beaten and the pinion has also tooth beaten leaves. Since it is way out of my league to repair a cylinder escapement I found a modern plattform escapement which fits bang on. 18 tousend beats, 8 leaves pinion and the exact same pinion dimensions as the original. I gave it a test run and it performs very well. My only hurdle now is that the original holes fit the width (a true miracle) but lengthwise I would need to make 4 slot holes out of the 2mm plattform holes. This would have the advantage that I can precisely mesh the contrate wheel with the plattform pinion. I just have no idea how to go about this. Shall I file or mill the plate holes of the escapement or am I on the complete wrong track?

Cheers and all the best from Hamburg Alex

IMG_20210510_165602_1.thumb.jpg.44128d8c28c507137fa64959abe9cf89.jpgIMG_20210510_165705.thumb.jpg.16cda61ab0a4f805a19669d779706344.jpg

IMG_20210512_175835_1.thumb.jpg.6f066c968a447583c896c08172fde20f.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re placing the platform means you have devalued the clock. You need to line the platform up with the  contrate wheel as you said and mark the platform where the holes are in the clock plates. Mill the holes is best this will make sure they are straight. As you know you have a depth adjusting screw to help with the meshing. Why don't you look on ebay for a replacement cylinder platform.

 

Just ask if you need more help. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Oldhippy. I've been searching eBay for three months now without much avail. But of course you are right - a plattform escapement from the 70ies just doesn't look right on a clock from the 1890ies. I think the best I can do is to calm down be patient and keep on looking for the right escapement. Cheers from Hamburg. Alex.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • After a 3-week work fiasco that took up 137% of my time, I was finally able to get back to restoring a G. Boley 8mm lathe I picked up on eBay. I still need to do a bit of polishing on the tailstock but it works very nicely. Before and after pictures below. In any case, when I was reassembling the motor I wasn't quite sure which side the pully attached to, or if it matters. My question is ... does it matter? The listing photo below shows it the reverse of how I have it now, but it seemed that the cord and the reversing lever(s) should be on the right away from the belt.   
    • Thanks Richard.  That’s clear.   So - another question - how much latitude is there in barrel and spring sizing? Say I have have measured the ID of my barrel to be 9mm and (all other mainspring specs being equal), the closest match I can find for a replacement mainspring is listed with an 8.5mm barrel size, is it acceptable to fit the smaller spring in to the slightly larger barrel without compromising anything functionally?  I’m in this situation now with an AS 1686 which has a 9mm barrel, but the closest replacement I can find has an 8.5mm diameter listed in its specs.  I can find an alternative 9mm spring, but would have to accept a different thickness.  I’m unsure how much wriggle room is acceptable, or whether in mainspring sizing, there’s a priority - ie thickness over barrel size etc. Thanks again for any info.  Cheers, John  
    • We already have a Facebook group run by Mark , so this is a bit moot. Search for “Watch repair lessons” group.   Tom
    • @dibs1 Hopefully you see this and post an update. @Knebo Would you happen to know what is the end-shake tolerance for a cal 15xx rotor or is there such a metric? Also, is there a specified height of the rotor?   I got the watch serviced which addressed the rotor grinding against the base plate and case back (i have checked by moving the watch in a circular motion to spin the rotor and have tested it dial up and down) however whenever the watch is shaken lightly the rotor touches the caseback and makes a ding. What is unusual is that is only happens when the rotor is resting at the 9'o clock position. The axle was replaced and reading around it seems that  spring clip, jewel and axel are the three parts that individually or together are causing this issue.
    • Yes, barrel size.  A 11mm spring will push out into a 11mm barrel, no need to go 0.5mm smaller. 
×
×
  • Create New...