Jump to content

Landeron 47: Wrong regulator arm?

Hoe

By Hoe
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hoe Member

Hoe

Posted
Posted

Dear watchmakers

I just serviced a Landeron 47 which is in good condition over all. But I could not get a decent result on the time grapher (watch runs too fast, huge beat error). After digging deeper I found the following.

The regulator arm pin on the balance cock is too far away from the centre of the balance in relation to the hairspring pin fixed on the balance cock. This causes a lot of distortion of the hair spring when everything is assembled. I guess someone in the history of this movement upgraded the balance setup with an Incabloc and used a regulator arm that does not fit the dimensions of the hair spring (?).

Furthermore I noticed that the pin’s location on the hair spring is somewhat wrong. There is a long overhanging section of spring. The hair spring itself is fine.

What are your suggestions?

  • replace wrong hair spring (probably not)
  • manipulate the hair spring: shift the pin to reduce the overhang and to reach the regulator pin (not sure if I am capable to do this)
  • replace the regulator
  • downgrade the Incabloc to the original non-shock proof setup
  • Others?

Best wishes

 

Landeron_47_Balance_Cock.jpg

Landeron_Incabloc.jpg

Landeron_47_Balance_Wheel.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
praezis Super WRT Addict

praezis

Posted
Posted

Hi,
you can do as proposed by AshF, but a slight bend at the marked spot will center your hairspring:
It will move the collet at right angle to the line spot - hs center.

HSpringCenter.jpg.47d51afd8a8712377e614605ec406fb2.jpg

Why do you suppose  an original non-shock? How does the jewel in the plate look like?

Frank

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Your third picture shows stud sitting at the begining of the TERMINAL CURVE( right after the bend), whereas it should be at the end, "end of hairspring"  Just like ashF shows.

Mount the stud in stud hole of the adjustment arm.

Unpin the hairspring.

Thread the hairspring through stud hole all the way to the end of hairspring.

Re-pin. 

You have a good terminal curve already, minor manipulation like this is routine.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Shock system, regulator arm and all other components are the right type. One you pin the stud at the end of hairspring, all will fall in right place.

The micropin( hairspring pin) doesn't look in best shape, replace or sharen its tip for reinsertion into stad.  Do you know how to sharpen a micropin? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • nevenbekriev
      Pcket watch "Art déco"?

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Rich, this one seems rather regular movement to me. Yes, what You describe exists, but I doubt that the one on the picture is something similar.
    • BlueHarp
      Pcket watch "Art déco"?

      By BlueHarp · Posted

      @Neverenoughwatches Many thanks for your remarks. As I wrote earlier, I was a bit reluctant to disassemble this movement, and you gave me further motives to be careful. I'll just remove it from its case so as to clean it a little.
    • nevenbekriev
      Watch running too fast

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      I am not sure for the terms in english, but if I directly translate from Bulgarian or Russian, there are 'magnetic soft' and 'magnetic hard' magnetic materials. The first group will not get magnetised, thow they will be attracted by magnets. The soft iron for example. The second group, like hardened steel, will get magnetised. So non magnetic hairspring aloys belong to the first group.
    • nevenbekriev
      Waltham A-11 Hairspring and Balance assessment help needed.

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Looks like it is only dirt. If rust, then this means the strenght of the spring is reduced in places with rust, so the spring is damaged and useless. Only light surface rust, which is rather residual from other places activity of rust can be cleaned, and no chemicals that can etch the metals of the spring aloy should be used
    • Waggy
      Case Tube Tool - Quest for one that works

      By Waggy · Posted

      Hello, I'm after some help on getting a functional tool for removing and replacing case tubes, the friction fit type not the threaded type. I have previously owned two Chinese Ali Express tools, which worked, but in each case after using on a watch case with an angle the watch had to be manually held perpendicular and when this angle was not perfectly aligned the pusher pin inevitably received a slight side load and the tool body was damaged. Due to the fact that the hole which holds the pusher pin is so close to the end of the block and the material wall is so thin: The result was that the hard pusher pin stretched and deformed the hole and the pusher pin was then slack and no longer perpendicular, and eventually the material split altogether. After I looked at the tool I realised that the block the hole was machined into was aluminum, this coupled with the extremely thin wall made this hole very weak and prone to the deformation and damage I had experienced. I looked to another reputable supplier (see below) who advertised their tool as "all steel" and I even contacted their customer support who confirmed that the block in question was made of steel. I was very disappointed yesterday when it arrived and found that it was in fact aluminum and not steel as promised. I could tell by the feel of the material (weight) and confirmed with a magnet which would not 'stick' and have since requested a return/refund. Assuming the return/refund goes smoothly, I am still left with my original problem of not having a tube pusher tool - does anyone have any recommendation for a tool which will work and will also stand the test of time?
×
×
  • Create New...