Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys. I've had this Pulsar y182-6a00 for many years and it has great sentimental value to me. I believe it has a Seiko movement and is basically a Seiko 7T42-6A00 clone? I stopped wearing it back in 2004 as I manged to lose the main (Time/Date) Crown. But recently I decided to try to get the watch up and running again, so I left it in with a jeweller to be repaired. Unfortunately he was unable to find a crown and stem so just moved the alarm crown and (possibly) stem into its place so I could at least set the time and date.

Id love to get a replacement main crown and stem and have the watch fully functional again. I think I could replace everything easily enough myself, and having done some online research I believe these items are still available. However I am not 100% sure about stem lengths. Will the time/date stem and the alarm stem be the same part and the same length, or is the Alarm stem completely different and/or shorter? 

Just hoping you guys could point me in the right direction with regard to parts required and maybe offer some useful advice?

Many thanks in advance.

Kev

119722096_10157180498280458_7167681314613509292_n.jpg

119676395_10157180498360458_5763241839117969878_n.jpg

Posted

I would guess the main crown is larger diameter. 
 

The watchmaker May have trimmed the stem to fit but I’m going to guess it wasn’t trimmed. Check the parts list and get the correct main crown, which may come with the stem attached. Seiko, for the divers anyway, often supply the crown and stem assembled. 
 

Note that if the original stem and crown were lost, there may be parts needed for the keyless to be sure the new one doesn’t fall out...
 

Post up your findings and we’ll try to help. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks @Tudor
Yeah Ive managed to locate the correct diameter crown and stem online, but the stem seems to be quite long, so I'm guessing it's for the time/date only. I cant find a shorter one for the alarm, so I'm going to try to maybe shorten the Time/date stem. Its worth a try anyway. The crowns and stems seem to come as separate units that screw together.

I will of course post how I get on.

Posted

Hi @aac58. Yeah I see that but I can only see the stem part no 351.580, and Im wondering does that stem fit both crowns as it looks a bit ling for the Alarm crown?

Posted (edited)

Ive just found this online... which might answer my question?

Capture.PNG

Capture1.PNG

Edited by Kevo
update
Posted (edited)

yes both stems.have the same part number, you probably will have to cut it to size

Edited by aac58
  • Like 1
Posted

I like to thread it into a die plate, trim with wire cutters and back it out of the plate, which straightens the threads out. Sometimes I’ll polish it before backing it out if it was an ugly cut...

if you’ve not trimmed stems before, get extras and wear eye protection when trimming. They are hard and the bits fly fast and far. 

  • Like 1


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would repeat what @nickelsilver says, and even more. I have at leas 10 old thread plates and I have never seen one that will cut like a normal die. I don't know if they are completely worn or have never been sharp enough, but I find them completely useless. And, for the new Indian ones, I have heard only bad things. For sure, if one tries to cut more thread on a winding stem, this hole of the plate is ruined. Further more, I have bad experience with all watch size thread dies that I could buy from the available machine  tool shops here. They could not cut normal thread even on brass rod. The size was significantly smaller and the pitch is like it should be for the claimed size... The thread shape was bad too. I will explain how I do threads. I use lathe that can cut threads and thus I can prepare perfect taps. I use milling attachment instead cutter in the tool post and so I can cut thread even on hardened rod. But I prefer to harden the rod after thread cutting and temper it only to light color change as to have the maximum hardness. Then I make a tap out of it by grinding. I prepare my dies for screw thread cutting with the taps I have prepared as described. In watchmaking, dies exist and are often used that are not cutting, but rather forming the thread. They are like nuts and don't have cutting holes and edges. This kind of dies I prepare and use. You will need soft steel plate , drill a hole in it, then cut thread, then make chamfer on one side, repeat the thread, harden. You can temper just a little or leave untempered, depending of the steel You use. Using such die is with soft steel rod (or completely annealed). Good oil is to be generously applied. The rod has to be with smaller diam than the thread size (about 0.8 - 0.9 x ), the diam is better determined by tries. The rod elongates by the thread forming too. When I have to make screws from harder material like SS, I just cut them on the lathe. You screw needs hardening and tempering to be finished as real screw.  
    • You could make a guide/jig. Cut a slot in a piece of metal approx the same thickness as the screw head, then drill a hole (screw head diameter) in that slot.
    • Tried a SR920W and its completely dead after 3 weeks 🤷‍♂️ 
    • Thanks so much for quick replies. I got some watch repair tools ordered, and will get back with pictures once I removed the back lid and get into it 🙂
    • Welcome to the WRT forum. 
×
×
  • Create New...