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Universal Genve 1-42 Walkthrough and a late coming self introduction.


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Hey guys. I've been browsing this forum and posting a lot of questions for a long while. But since I'm a watch repair enthusiast, I have not yet introduced myself since I'm afraid me as a layman would not be welcomed. After joining the discussion in the forum, I really found the members are kind and warmhearted. Many of the members had helped me through a lot of troubles. Especially the repair of my Universal Geneve. So I want to thank those who answered and helped me inside my topic. I'm very grateful. Although the repair of the Universal 42 was not a difficult case, I want to show the walkthrough to thank those who had helped me.

As Host Mark suggest I would like to introduce myself before going into the walkthrough. I'm a Chinese watch repair enthusiast. I love mechanics but I did not study any relevant subject in my undergraduate study. I study philosophy in my undergraduate career, so some parts of the watch repair process trouble me especially those including calculation. For now, I'm still a postgraduate student. So I'm buying on a budget. For that sake, I don't have a lot of tools especially those expensive ones, for instance, automatic oiler and mainspring winder. I wish I could keep this hobby and learn from you guys. And it's time for the walkthrough.

I brought this watch from a Chinese seller. The issue with this one is he can not wind the watch up. I suspect something happen with the mainspring or the barrel assembly. Besides that, this watch looks beautiful.

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I take the movement out and start with some highlight of the disassembly since this is a very basic movement.

After I take out the balance and pallet I decide to take out the connon pinion. But then I found out this little thing is super super tight. I thought and it probarbly should, just some dried oil. So I have no choice but take out the rest of the train and drop the entire mainplate, connon pinion, center wheel and the barrel bridge all together into the cleaning solution and ultrasonic clean it for 10 minutes. After that it's still tight but I can use a clamp to take it out. Before that the pinion doesnt even moved.

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 Before cleaning I check the parts. All parts looks good except the barrel assembly.  As for the barrel:

 

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it's dirty, that's for sure. The barrel looks wored but I think it can still hold the bridle. 

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The bridge is what cause the problem. At first I thought well it still have some bridle left there, give it a try. But, no luck.

With the help of some members, I know the MS I'm looking for is GR2298 (0.9*0.1*260*7.5 mm). I did not found any supplier in China selling this model. While worldwide shopping would be a trouble for Chinese costumers. So I start with some little experiments.

The first MS I try is the ms or omega 620 (0.9*1.0*220*6.5 mm) The height and thickness are the same with the one I look for. The MS can fit in the barrel as well. It can wind up with no problem. The issue with this one is, first, insufficient power, the movement only get 200 amplitude, which is very bad. The second thing is the MS don't know when to stop, it will curl inside the barrel.

The second MS I try is Rolex 1600 (0.8*0.103*285*8mm) The height is slightly lower, as for the thickness and length, they are not a problem , the MS can fit in the barrel. BUT, the ms doesnt fit the arbor. The arbor can not hook up the ms. Meanwhile, rolex use a different kind of bridle, but I have no idea whether it will work or not since I can even wind it up.

The third I try is (0.8*0.1*260*8mm) This works perfectly, maybe a little bit weeker compare to idea, but I got 240 amplitude with little positional error. I think it should be fine. But I did not use this one . One of my friend find a perfecct matched spare MS for me.

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I dont have mainspring winder, so I have to do it manually. Although the barrel is small but winding this is unexpectedly easy. Probarbly because it's a non automatic bridle and the MS is thin and narrow, you dont need a lot of strength to push the mainspring insider the barrel.

Cleaning of the parts:

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I use a small ultrasonic machine to clean the parts. I will separate the parts with different cans. For all the parts I will clean them with something called ‘Solution 180’ selled in China (something similar to napatha) for around 10~15 minutes. Then I use ISO to clean every parts do not contain shellac for 10 minutes.

Check before assembly:

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Assembly:

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Notice the jewel of the third wheel is under the minutes wheel and cover by setting lever jumper. So in order to proper oil the third wheel I decide to assemble the train of wheels first. 

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Put the wheels into place.

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Before I install the train wheel bridge. I have to oil the rub in jewel. For model (1-42) the cap jewel can be removed, for model (42) the cap jewel can not be removed. At first I try to oil the rub in jewel using the standard way. But I found replacing the cap jewel back with out displacing the oil is tricky for me. I then adopt the method suggest by JohnR725 :

oiling if cannot be removed.JPGdo not oiling.JPG

Install the train wheel bridge

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I oiled the entire train wheel bridge with 9010 including third wheel.

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Then I flipped the movement to the dial side to install the keyless work and motion work.

First I want to replace the canon pinion. But again, it's really super super tight. It can not even fit into the center wheel. This is when I start to worry someone did something bad to the movement. What if someone glue the canon pinion before? I then use acetone to soak the canon pinion. Then I try to put it back on, everthing is fine. I dont have the connon pinion grease of moebius. I use HP 1300 instead.

Then I start to replace the keyless work. I oiled the entire keyless work with molykote DX

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Put back the setting wheel and minute wheel. Replace the setting lever jumper to cover everthing up.

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The final thing with the movement is the escapement and the balance assembly.

The pallet is small. And the first time I try to oil it I probarbly over oiled it with 9415.10.jpg.93b960e65c203a158a59ea8692afcc71.jpg

So I decide to switch the method and oil the escape wheel teeth from the observation window on the plate.

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complete assembled.

About the timing. I dont get a very high amplitude with this movement. What I got is 240 dial up/down 190~200 crown down/up

But since the time keeping is good with this 4 position (±7~8s/day) I'm fine with the amplitude.

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Final step

fit the dial then put the movement back in case.

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Seal the case back

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Install hand and bezel, glass.

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A beautiful ladies watch.

 

Finally, thank you for those had help me through this little probject! Also those who click in and read my stupid walkthrough. Enjoy your day.

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    • Nice interesting diver Razz, i have a sheffield dress watch, different movement altogether. Could be a wrong motion works part, how does the setting feel before fitting the cannon pinion, clutch and intermediate wheel meshing ok ?  The less traditional setting design could be suspect, the second wheel has a slip clutch assembly, that most likely needs looking at. LA is 42 ° Razz Tbh i  much prefer to call the complete unit the lever, then use the seperate names for all of its components. Such as guard pin, fork, fork horns, fork slot, lever arm, pallets , pallet arms, pallet slot, pallet stones. I suppose pallet fork is the combination of the two opposite ends that make up the lever, its also called the anchor which is descriptive of its appearance.  Its a pretty basic 1930s  swiss lever movement H and yes Nev was meaning the pallet fork.
    • The pallet fork should really be called a lever, English lever, Swiss lever etc but most people including myself call it a pallet fork.
    • Seiko have case numbers, I  can't see it on your photos.  If you can find that we can look for a genuine crown.  If not, you need to measure the diameter of the stem, the distance between the lugs and the depth of the lugs.  The case number will be something like this. 
    • I'm not sure what kind of movement this is, but I'm curious to know if you're using the word "lever" as a synonym for "pallet fork"?
    • Actually kind of rough, maybe munute wheel pinion problems? Is the 2.73mm canion oinion which seems rarer and not availble on Cousins UK. The seconds hand works and suprising nice amplitude but don't know the lift angle and BE this one says 17 j but is a pin pallet as well. Cap jewels on the escape and drive train pivots. Interestingly in has both water proof and shock resistant on the caseback and dial. Puts this around 1969 or '70? The double bezel that works independently is cool has the pi symbol on each. Wonder if it can be used like a slide rule ir something...
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