Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all!

 

I am having an issue with a Valjoux 72. The minute recorder wants to reset to 0 about 90% of the time. The rest of the time it will be exactly 1 minute to the left of 0 always.

Any Ideas? I thought it could have been the minute recorder jumper spring, but I have adjusted it a ton of times with no success. 

 

Attached you will find a photo.

Thanks for any and all insight!

 

IMG_20200503_211210.thumb.jpg.919e1f652cf7208b6ad4a388260b21fd.jpg

Posted

If it is the same procedure as the 7750 the pusher has to be pushed in to engage the cam when fitting the hand. Hence its advisable to use a dedicated movement holder. 

Posted

You need to check that when the hammer is down it's in full contact with the seconds heart cam and there is a tiny freedom on the minute cam. The jumper should be centered on two teeth at this moment.

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

You need to check that when the hammer is down it's in full contact with the seconds heart cam and there is a tiny freedom on the minute cam. The jumper should be centered on two teeth at this moment.

 

Sure. Here is a photo when I am holding the reset hammer in. Let me know your thoughts.

 

Thank you!

IMG_20200504_132420.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

In that position check the minute counter has a small amount of freedom with the hammer but not enough to let a tooth go over the jumper.

It lets one tooth go over the jumper in that position

Posted
12 hours ago, Chrono15 said:

It lets one tooth go over the jumper in that position

In both directions? If so, you will need to shorten the face of the hammer that contacts the seconds cam. If only in one direction you can possibly adjust the jumper to equalize the play, and if you're lucky it doesn't pass the beak of the jumper anymore.

 

The hammer face will need to be polished and flat after retouching, and take just a tiny bit off and check.

Posted
2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

In both directions? If so, you will need to shorten the face of the hammer that contacts the seconds cam. If only in one direction you can possibly adjust the jumper to equalize the play, and if you're lucky it doesn't pass the beak of the jumper anymore.

 

The hammer face will need to be polished and flat after retouching, and take just a tiny bit off and check.

I will give it a shot. Only in one direction, However I've adjusted the jumper endlessly to no avail. I'll try the hammer.

Posted
4 minutes ago, Chrono15 said:

I will give it a shot. Only in one direction, However I've adjusted the jumper endlessly to no avail. I'll try the hammer.

You adjust the jumper to center the play between two teeth, that's the adjustment. If the play is too much, i.e. you pass the jumper beak in both directions, or making one or the other safe makes the other unsafe, you trim the hammer. If the play is too much no amount of adjusting the jumper will help.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/5/2020 at 9:57 AM, nickelsilver said:

You adjust the jumper to center the play between two teeth, that's the adjustment. If the play is too much, i.e. you pass the jumper beak in both directions, or making one or the other safe makes the other unsafe, you trim the hammer. If the play is too much no amount of adjusting the jumper will help.

Thank you. I trimmed the hammer slightly and that did the trick!

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...