Leaderboard

Battery Selection Table Model Mercury type Silver Oxide type 214 387 387S, 394**, SR936SW** Accucell 1 218 343 344, 350. SR1136SW Accucell 1 219 343 344, 350, SR1136SW Accucell 1 2210 388 329, SR731SW*** Accucell 2 230 343 344, 350. SR1136SW Accucell 1 224 343 344, SR1136SW Accucell 1 ESA 9162/4 343 344, 350, SR1136SW ESA 9210 343 344, 350, SR1136SW Omega 1220 343 344, SR1136SW Omega 1300 313 357, SR44 Omega 1301, 1302 343 344, 350, SR1136SW Hope this is better. Cheers, Vic

Hello Jim, if you don't able to find what you want, try find a spare watch on eBay ?..;).. It's an idea anyway.

Hi Jim, Try ofrei, they have all of them!

Quantum Physics is easy to understand. It all starts when a Nucleon leaves it's nest, if it meets an Electreon that it fancies, they get together and make a Nuclermatide, they like doing this so much that they do it again and again and again. The end result, apart from the fact that they get very tired, is an enormous explosion.

Just a few observations and please pardon me if its stuff you already know. I have a few Accucell-1 batteries and when I started messing around with Accutrons the main thing I had my attention drawn to was the battery choices and Voltage which is 1.35 as opposed to the Renata 387 which is 1.55. There is a handy table on another site: Model Mercury type Silver Oxide type 214 387 387S, 394**, SR936SW** Accucell 1 218 343 344, 350. SR1136SW Accucell 1 219 343 344, 350, SR1136SW Accucell 1 2210 388 329, SR731SW*** Accucell 2 230 343 344, 350. SR1136SW Accucell 1 224 343 344, SR1136SW Accucell 1 ESA 9162/4 343 344, 350, SR1136SW ESA 9210 343 344, 350, SR1136SW Omega 1220 343 344, SR1136SW Omega 1300 313 357, SR44 Omega 1301, 1302 343 344, 350, SR1136SW ***Not a perfect fit, but there is no direct equivalent to the 388. ** These are not supplied with the little plastic spacer. Re-use the spacer from your old 387 mercury cell. You note that for the 218 they advocate use of Accucell and also the 344/SR1136S but the main difference between the batteries is the Voltage ie 1.35 as opposed to 1.55. The use of either battery on a 218 is possible (if not recommended) but if the watch is normally phased for 1.35 and if you then use a 1.55 then it can lead to double indexing on the index wheel. Some repairers re-phase the 218 to use standard Renata 1.55 cells. I suppose what I am saying is replace like for like as if it has been re phased and you put an accucell in then it could lead to a problem. I have a few movements that are humming nicely but even though they are only movements without cases I always check them out with an accucell. The 214 has a similar sort of choice, if you buy a Renata, the 387 is shown on the package and it has the black plastic spacer disk on it but the positive side of the battery shows the number 394 and it is 1.55v. I have just returned my Accutron (bought in May) to the dealer I bought it off because gold on the case and crown was literally rubbing off. It looked great when I got it but it had obviously been brush plated to give it a thin gold coat. Give the guy his due and the benefit of the doubt he appeared quite surprised when he wrote back to me after inspecting it and agreed that it was not acceptable. He offered to source a replacement case which he sent pictures of and I have accepted. It makes a nice change to get customer service - I had expected a bit of a struggle. Anyway its nice to see the hummers getting a bit of attention. Lee put me on to the Stereo Microscope which has made a great difference for examination of the index wheels. They are not easy watches but definitely have less bits inside that the Mechanical ones :D Cheers, Vic

Gucci are extremely clever in being able to sell something worth $1 for $100 through clever marketing.

Hi, I just read this question about taking the accucell apart. I have done that and it will work for several battery changes. You have to be careful in that there are two copper plates inside the plastic ring and they are attached to the battery with what appears to be hot melt glue. You do not want to damage the small diode that is between the plates. You will need to remove these plates from the battery then reinstall them inside the spacer ring along with new battery. The new battery should hold the plates in place inside spacer without using any glue. I have managed to reuse them 3-4 times before they failed. The good thing about trying this is the battery will be dead when you start to work on it so you have nothing to lose. One other thing you will need to watch out for is that the battery is not too thick when you finish. Make sure you use proper battery and everything seats properly, otherwise it could be thick and damage the plastic plates of the movement. Charles K