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Small success story... not long after my wife and I were married (25 years ago) we were walking through Fordingbridge UK and the small jeweller's shop was closing down. In the window they had a display of new old stock Oris watches including an SA7445 with an exhibition back... later on that year, my wife presented me with the 7445 for my birthday. I wore the watch every day for 10 years, had it regularly serviced. However, about 15 years ago I was giving a lecture (cell biology (yawn)) in Belgium and whilst waving my hands around enthusiastically I felt something go cataclismically "sproing" inside it. The auto-winder span round and it died. The watch has sat in a draw neglected since. I've made half hearted attempts to get it fixed but no watchmender has been interested. Recently have been reading around, watching various videos, acquiring tools and started renovating quartz watches. Last weekend I plucked up the courage, sharpened my screwdrivers, got out rhe tweezers, loupe and rodico and investigated the Oris... I found that the all the screws in the rotor and the automatic mechanism were loose and the click had become disengaged. After a couple of hours I reassembled the auto wind, re engaged the click ratchet but the watch still didn't work. Then I noticed that one of the screws that holds the auto wind mechanism in place was missing. As I'd never had the watch apart before the logical conclusion was that the screw was somewhere inside. So... I carefully disassembled everything again and started to delve deeper into the movement... sure enough... there was the screw, jammed in the gear train. Gentle prodding and coaxing loosened it and I was able to shake it loose. Hey-Presto... the watch immediately started ticking and woke up after 15 years of suspended animation. After reassembly and ensuring everything was screwed tight... I proudly showed my wife the fruits of my labours. Sadly... she can't remember giving me the watch in the first place... oh well....

Hi Richard, I personally use a sandwich bag over the hands and a set of hand levers as these give a great level of control and help you feel what is happening. As opposed to a presto tool which I have also tried even a very good quality set with thin pullers. I find Prestos can give a slight sudden uncontrolled release of the hands. But as always whatever works for you. A few tips are - cheaper hand levers will most likely have thicker bases difficult to feed under the hands and will require some dressing to thin them out, I spent a good half hour dressing and polishing the bases on mine, but worth the time and effort as they work very well. It is a little easier if the watch has stopped so your not chasing the second hand and helps if you have the hour and minute hands aligned. I normally set the time to 12 o'clock. Change the film you are using to place over the hands fairing regularly, as it get damaged periodically especially if your hand levers have a thinness to them. I recommend a thinness as opposed to sharpness. Once the dial is damaged its pretty much beyond a hobbyists repair. Hope this helps

Yes they are old pin lever movemrnts but are very robust and were used in many afordable watches in the 60s. reliable old workers. Not a s classy as the jeweled lever ones but an example of th technology.

looks like a BFG 866 . but no markings google Ranfft BFG 866 for details.

I think John is right in what he says doing it and understanding the why's and wherefore's is another thing. If it says dont open ones logic says it was done for a reason, like sealed for life bearings. But if a replacement cannot be got or is too expensive then that is a good reason to try. but as advocated by jdm and HECTOR make a jig to support the barrel and be very clear in what you are attempting to do and be careful in doing it, because if you ruin it you are back to square one or even worse as now it is destroyd.

Thank you @Nucejoeand @grsnovi @grsnovihow are you finding it so far? I've only done very basic things with movements. Ie replacing date dials. I'm looking forward to learning more

If you’re tinkering with a movement in a watch case, that’s your first problem. All movement work should be done only once the movement has been removed from the watch case. The only exceptions are removal of the rotor (and rotor bridge) or if you are doing minor adjustments to the balance regulator. Anyway, if you can get the train wheels to spin freely by turning the barrel, it could mean one of the train wheels is not engaging with the rest of the train wheels (such as a broken escape wheel), or a broken pallet fork not locking.

Hi Gary. I think I had one these a few months ago on a cheap lucerne. Sadly I pretty much destroyed the full watch as it was one of my first attempted fixes from a job lot. Not entirely my fault if I'm honest, it was unbelievably cheap and nasty in every respect and I'm sure it had an unserviceable mainspring inside which suggested a pretty much throw away item. Unfortunately that's what I did with it with no inspection or investigation of the barrel. It does look like you've had a little go. There is no slot to enter with a pry this suggests do not open, also the do not open in English and in German stamped on it suggests do not open lol. Give me a moment to get serious, I can when I try. Does the barrel lid curl around the inside of the main barrel, if so then I think you are going to have a hard time getting it off. Try a pair of tweezers with the blades spaced out over the barrel onto the barrel teeth and push down . The lid should be on top and hopefully pop up, gauge your pressure, if it feels like it's not going to give then you may damage the arbor or the spring. Good luck. If you're anything like me, if a sign says do not enter then I'm going to look inside to see why I'm not supposed to enter

Thanks for the intro @Chrishunter, welcome to the WRT forum! I'm also relatively new and I'm in the middle of my first service of an Elgin Grade 313 movement which is stalled at the moment as I wait on deliveries.

Ha ha found it. Under the coffee machine in the kitchen on top of sonic instructions that had gone underneath my coffee machine. But now I'm in two minds to polish it. I will see tomorrow if I can find my wizard( black and decker) Dremel

You do not need to fit the balance with the impulse jewel between the horns on the pallet fork. I don't know anyone who does that. Try setting the fork to one side or the other. Then bring the balance into position and drop the lower pivot into place, but rotated 90 degrees, so the impulse jewel is well outside the fork, in the direction you set it. Now carefully rotate the cock into position and get the upper pivot into it's hole.

What about the traditional way by watchmakers. Eyeglass and holding band. Get 2 or 3 magnifications of the highest quality you can afford. There must be a reason why it works for me and many millions of other people.