Jump to content

Identifying shock spring for an FEF

Ishima

By Ishima
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ishima Super WRT Addict

Ishima

Posted
Posted (edited)

On the off chance I wondered if anyone would be clever enough to figure out which incabloc shock spring (lyre style) the FEF 6620 uses, I tried to figure it out myself but perhaps because I've not had to track one down before, i didn't get very far. I have some very vague measurements (could only measure the good spring, in the setting) I believe it's ~1.7mm width by 1.1mm length. 
Trying to avoid buying a balance complete for the sake of an incabloc spring. 
http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&FEF_6620

Edited by Ishima
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Tip and tricks here.

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Making a stud pin for a pocketwatch from 1mm copper wire, softer than brass but it will do the job. The lathe cost 3 pound including the chuck, powered from an old electric shaver adapter. 
    • tIB
      Another 6105 back in action!

      By tIB · Posted

      And I'm already very pleased with my life choices...
    • LittleWatchShop
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      Demagnetizers work on the principle of a decaying magnetic field. Whether the expensive Elma or the cheap Chinese...same principle. For the cheap ones, you are decaying the magnetic field manually by drawing the watch away from the demagnetizer while it is energized. The Elma (and others) generates a decaying magnetic field electronically so you don't have to do the work. If you use the cheap ones properly,  they will do the job. I prefer the Elma style...but that is just me.
    • mbwatch
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By mbwatch · Posted

      I also still use my cheap first set of screwdrivers. I replaced the blades of the smallest (0.6mm) with higher quality once I had bent a few of the originals, but beyond that I have been fine. Note though that I do not work on any remotely valuable watches and most of what I deal with are in a truly terrible state, watches that have been banging around in kitchen drawers or toolboxes. So my concern for screw head slot integrity and scratches is usually not very high.  As for a loupe - you won't need anything powerful for an ST36 that is new. You don't need to do close inspection of balance pivots because they will not be worn out, and a 3x or 5x loupe is perfectly sufficient to see the oiling. I don't have any microscope or powerful magnification of any sort. I just use cheap loupes. But again this would be different if I were working with more valuable watches. And if I had equipment to burnish pivots, then I would get a microscope to check my work.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I've recently switched over to using a x2.5 -x3 eyeglass for disassembly and some larger part assembly. It's interesting to see how accustomed and trained your eyes become to that way of working after using a microscope for years. And pick up and work at eyelevel when possible. Personally I would stick with and learn to use regular oilers efficiently. 
×
×
  • Create New...