Worn mainplate under crown wheel

[JohnL]

Hi,

Would anybody be able to offer some insight as to a possible solution here? When I first opened this watch a while back I thought it was just the end of the ridge and the 'chrome' that had worn away, but taking a look today I see it's worn away the brass to a reasonable extent. Torque comes on the crown wheel, it lifts up and separates from the winding pinion. Is this just a case of replace the mainplate if I want to keep the watch?

All the best,

John

[AndyGSi]

What's the movement?

The fact it lifts up would make me think it's the wheel that's worn as the screw should set the maximum height.

Can you post photos showing both sides of the wheel.

[JohnL]

Sorry, when I said lift up: it tilts, lifts up on the side where the winding pinion is so the teeth no longer engage, down on the side where the mainplate is worn. I think it's worn there more than is immediately apparent in the photo; it's a bit dark.  

I shall get some photos of the crown wheel 

It's a Poljot 2614.2H. There is perhaps a bit of slop around the bushing, and some of the teeth may be slightly worn on the underside of the crown wheel. I'm not sure that if those issues are addressed it will fix the problem. I get the impression that having no support under one side is a bit of a design flaw that's asking for trouble. 

[AndyGSi]

I see now where the plate is worn which would cause the wheel to tilt.

Depending on the movement and how much you want to put in to it the easy fix is a new plate.

The other option I've done in the past is to insert a piece of metal where it's worn.

 

 

Edited 10 hours ago by AndyGSi

[JohnL]

Thanks Andy, that's what i was afraid of, thought that might be the case.

18 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

The other option I've done in the past is to insert a piece of metal where it's worn.

 Dare I ask how you've inserted a piece of metal, and kept it there? 

I presume the surge protector document isn't related to this?

Edited 10 hours ago by JohnL

[AndyGSi]

lol, the surge protection is something else I'm working on.

I make a recess with this type of grinding wheel then glue a washer in place.

The glue is just secondary as the recess and wheel should hold it in place anyway.

I know it's not pretty but it works.

[JohnL]

You're a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you.

[AndyGSi]

So how easy would it be to get a new plate?

[MariusJacob]

4 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

So how easy would it be to get a new plate?

Poljot 2614 is a movement quite easy to find as donors thought eBay, Etsy... Really cheap.

A quick search through the bay sorted by the cheapest first, shows me, as a first result, a seller who offers different pieces, plates as cheap as 6 euro plus 3 euro shipping.

Complete calibers for 20 euro. And if you are not in a hurry they will show up cheaper. 

[AndyGSi]

Where in the world are you?

Here in the UK you're looking at around £10 for a complete movement delivered in 2 to 3 days.

[JohnL]

Yeah, same for me. Ten to twelve euro for the movement that looks reasonable, another ten or more for postage then VAT on top. 

It's not my watch, it belongs to a family member. It was bought on a whim when purchasing another from the same seller I believe. I may decide to do it, but given it requires ordering a donor movement, it will probably go to the back of the queue.

[mikepilk]

I usually put a drop of oil under the crown wheel. 

[AndyGSi]

I'm late home tonight but will see what I've got.

I know I've got a few that have the front end trashed so are only good for parts.

[nevenbekriev]

John, the plate (actually the barrel bridge) is not worn or at least this is not the problem. The big washer (which is also part of the crown wheel bearing) under the crown wheel screw in You movement is missing. If You put it as should be, then the movement will wind normally. But, as the crown wheel is now a little worn on the bottom side, You may have to put it upside down. A little ugly, but this is USSR movement

 

 

[AndyGSi]

1 hour ago, nevenbekriev said:

John, the plate (actually the barrel bridge) is not worn or at least this is not the problem. The big washer (which is also part of the crown wheel bearing) under the crown wheel screw in You movement is missing. If You put it as should be, then the movement will wind normally. But, as the crown wheel is now a little worn on the bottom side, You may have to put it upside down. A little ugly, but this is USSR movement

 

 

Was this a later addition as 3 of the 4 movements I've just pulled out don't have it and have obviously never been touched?

[JohnL]

1 hour ago, nevenbekriev said:

John, the plate (actually the barrel bridge) is not worn or at least this is not the problem. The big washer (which is also part of the crown wheel bearing) under the crown wheel screw in You movement is missing. If You put it as should be, then the movement will wind normally. But, as the crown wheel is now a little worn on the bottom side, You may have to put it upside down. A little ugly, but this is USSR movement

 

I've looked at a number of different 2164.2H movements and, while most appear to have that design, not all. Rat Faced Git's video of a disassembly shows that it's different design of crown wheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIHYax8ge1I

I would suspect it alleviates the design issues of the one I have, I don't know.

Was just checking an offer on a 2614.2H that I had been looking at when I saw a collection of parts including, crown wheel and bridge, for a reasonable price and reasonable postage. So I grabbed it. Thank you everyone for all your help. Hopefully this will do the trick. 

[AndyGSi]

So looks like there are 2 variants, one having a 2 part crown wheel with longer screw.

I was going to offer some parts but as you're sorted I'll leave you with it.

Edited 2 hours ago by AndyGSi

[RichardHarris123]

Very generous of you, @AndyGSi.

[JohnL]

6 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

I was going to offer some parts but as you're sorted I'll leave you with it.

Extraordinarily generous of you, and I thank you regardless.