New Sherline lathe--first project

[LittleWatchShop]

I got a new Sherline--not to replace my WW lathes--but to complement them. I wanted something that could handle bigger stock as well as have access to many inexpensive accessories.

Had to make a mental leap from hand turning to cross slide turning. So far, I am having fun.

My first project is a WW tailstock runner that supports a 1/8" carbide bit. The first attempt was a fail. I got too aggressive and removed too much material. My second attempt appears to be a success. I only needed to remove about 300 um from this 1144 steel rod. Then drill a near perfect 1/8" hole. I turned the rod between a 3-jaw chuck and a live center. I may follow up with a set screw to hold the bit.

Stay tuned for other cool projects.

 

Here is my Sherline setup

Edited January 16 by LittleWatchShop

[SwissSeiko]

I have a taig, which is the cheaper version of a sherline. I also made a tailstock runner. Its best to turn it between centers to get it concentric. As far as a set screw, I would go with a different approach, as any lateral input on the drill bit will shift it slightly and move it out of center. The best option is to turn a bunch of brass sockets for all the bits you have, turn a taper on the end that will go into the tailstock runner, and shellac the drill bit in the socket. Since you already have experience making a runner, you can make another one with an internal taper that matches the external taper you put on the brass sockets.

[LittleWatchShop]

5 hours ago, SwissSeiko said:

I have a taig, which is the cheaper version of a sherline. I also made a tailstock runner. Its best to turn it between centers to get it concentric. As far as a set screw, I would go with a different approach, as any lateral input on the drill bit will shift it slightly and move it out of center. The best option is to turn a bunch of brass sockets for all the bits you have, turn a taper on the end that will go into the tailstock runner, and shellac the drill bit in the socket. Since you already have experience making a runner, you can make another one with an internal taper that matches the external taper you put on the brass sockets.

Yes, I did turn on centers. The fit is near perfect. When removing the bit, a small vacuum is pulled and then, pop.

This was more of an experiment than addressing a need...so far

[SwissSeiko]

On 1/24/2025 at 2:47 PM, LittleWatchShop said:

Yes, I did turn on centers. The fit is near perfect. When removing the bit, a small vacuum is pulled and then, pop.

This was more of an experiment than addressing a need...so far

So satisfying when it fit perfectly! I'm currently building a tool post holder for my flex tool, so I can mount a 3in grinding wheel to it to precision grind my tailstock runners. And also cut wheel teeth.

[LittleWatchShop]

12 minutes ago, SwissSeiko said:

So satisfying when it fit perfectly! I'm currently building a tool post holder for my flex tool, so I can mount a 3in grinding wheel to it to precision grind my tailstock runners. And also cut wheel teeth.

Would love to see pictures as you progress!!!

[SwissSeiko]

16 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Would love to see pictures as you progress!!!

I will post them when I have it finished. Right now, I'm finishing up the lapping table setup for the lathe. Last night I got the lapping plates mounted to the lathe arbors. Just need to face them flat, and get the hardware for the pivoting table I made for the cross slide. Right now its all 3D printed, so I don't know how rigid it is going to be.

[LittleWatchShop]

4 minutes ago, SwissSeiko said:

I will post them when I have it finished. Right now, I'm finishing up the lapping table setup for the lathe. Last night I got the lapping plates mounted to the lathe arbors. Just need to face them flat, and get the hardware for the pivoting table I made for the cross slide. Right now its all 3D printed, so I don't know how rigid it is going to be.

I, too, print lots of 3D stuff for tools.  99% is PLA with a tiny bit of ABS when necessary.

[SwissSeiko]

5 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I, too, print lots of 3D stuff for tools.  99% is PLA with a tiny bit of ABS when necessary.

I struggle so much with ABS adhering to my bed, even with glue and brim hats. I use PETG for 90% of my prints, as its as easy as PLA, but more strong. I have a Bambu P1S

[LittleWatchShop]

2 minutes ago, SwissSeiko said:

I struggle so much with ABS adhering to my bed, even with glue and brim hats. I use PETG for 90% of my prints, as its as easy as PLA, but more strong. I have a Bambu P1S

Still using my old original Lulzbot Mini from about 2018 or so.