PUW 1461 Lift Angle?
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Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I canāt figure out the working of the calendar workā¦itās not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I canāt see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
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Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage.Ā
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I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
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By nickelsilver · Posted
I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis. Ā Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4Ā index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate. Ā The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch š. Ā This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle. Ā Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle. Ā Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill. Ā Ā The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock. Ā And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment). -
I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L Ā movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.Ā Ā For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d Ā would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d.Ā
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