Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi

When the centre seconds wheel reaches around 57 seconds and its teeth beneath touches the "Intermediate" wheel next to the minute wheel, the watch stops. When I turn on those two wheels manually when they are free, it feels sticky - is it just a cleaning or an adjustment/repair? 

And if someone knows the history of the cal. 47, kindly let me know. Like how many were made and for what purpose etc. 

IMG_20241101_010259769.thumb.jpg.7d5601064fb44f6754df5d98dab2ec36.jpg

Edited by Khan
  • Khan changed the title to Landeron 47 (48) stops after a minute
Posted

Is that intermediate wheel adjustable for depth of engagement with the centre seconds wheel?

It looks to me like the the tooth engagement is too shallow and they may be contacting near end-on and blocking rather on the sides of the teeth, where the load should be transferred??

Some of the intermediate wheel teeth look mis-shapen, with a step at the present engagement depth - as they mesh like that, they can wedge together.

Landeron.jpg.9f594f9391314cb3c7552555a5056b49.jpg

Posted
7 hours ago, caseback said:

Did it run ok before or did you get it like this? When was it last serviced? 

I got it like this, dont know the service history unfortunately. 

6 hours ago, rjenkinsgb said:

Is that intermediate wheel adjustable for depth of engagement with the centre seconds wheel?

It looks to me like the the tooth engagement is too shallow and they may be contacting near end-on and blocking rather on the sides of the teeth, where the load should be transferred??

Some of the intermediate wheel teeth look mis-shapen, with a step at the present engagement depth - as they mesh like that, they can wedge together.

Landeron.jpg.9f594f9391314cb3c7552555a5056b49.jpg

At the Green Arrow, thats the adjustment screw. I tried to get the Intermediate wheel teeth closer to the centre Chrono wheel but it still stops, also at other teeth of Intermediate wheel. 

IMG-20241101-WA0001.thumb.jpg.5bbbf012cd14ef796d2b9f073a9b739f.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

This happens if the pivots of sliding gear wheel and min. recording runner are blocked by dirt and old oil (both shall not get oil).

Disassemble and clean them.

Frank

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I figured out that the dial hole at the minute counter isnt centered. How to fix that? Is the dial foot Bent? And the hour, minute and seconds hands seems to sit stuck and dry. How to take them off without bending the dial? 

IMG_20241105_031714877.jpg

On 11/1/2024 at 2:30 PM, praezis said:

This happens if the pivots of sliding gear wheel and min. recording runner are blocked by dirt and old oil (both shall not get oil).

Disassemble and clean them.

Frank

The reason was that the dial hole for the minute counter isnt centered. When I take off the minute counter hand, the chronograph functions perfectly. 

Posted (edited)

The watch has most likely been dropped or bumped. And, as the service history of it is unknown as well, I suggest you take it apart completely and do a full service. Could it be that you are trying to avoid doing that? During disassembly and inspection, this cause of the chronograph stopping after a minute would have already been found. The same thing with your question on the dial feet: disassemble and find out. The a dial foot might be bent or broken. I'm afraid none of us can see that looking at the photo you provided.

Edited by caseback
Rephrase
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, caseback said:

The watch has most likely been dropped or bumped. And, as the service history of it is unknown as well, I suggest you take it apart completely and do a full service. Could it be that you are trying to avoid doing that? During disassembly and inspection, this cause of the chronograph stopping after a minute would have already been found. The same thing with your question on the dial feet: disassemble and find out. The a dial foot might be bent or broken. I'm afraid none of us can see that looking at the photo you provided.

You are right, I was hoping to not do a full service to avoid the risk of unnecessary wear during (dis)assembly but since Id love to wear it regularly and dont like the thought of a super dry mainspring and barrel, it needs to get a full service so will start doing that. By the way, the pivot in the dial hole at 3 o clock is located south of the hole. But the other dial hole at 9 o clock is perfectly centered. 

Edited by Khan
Posted

I have now diassembled the watch and see Bent dial feet, why it was struggling to come off the movement. How to the straighten them? 

IMG_20241106_014106168.jpg

IMG_20241105_233421467_HDR.jpg

And should I order a new spring? The very old one looks tired. It was running fine though but didnt check the amplitude. 

IMG_20241106_000405455.jpg

IMG_20241106_000052286.jpg

Posted
3 hours ago, Khan said:

I have now diassembled the watch and see Bent dial feet, why it was struggling to come off the movement. How to the straighten them? 

And should I order a new spring? The very old one looks tired. It was running fine though but didnt check the amplitude. 

- with care and small steps with a small pair of pliers. Look at where the dialfeet are and where the dial needs to go, then you know which way to bend it.

- Yes, that is the sensible thing to do imo.

  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...