Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Could pinion wire be made to fit if the correct size is available..then drill out the wire ?

Screenshot_20241026-081729_eBay.jpg

Something new to learn every day. I didn't know this existed! Available in brass as well. Well worth a try I would say.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

This can be made and it is not a problem. Get hold of one of these mags and look at the adds and you will find clockmakers who make parts. 

http://www.clocksmagazine.com/

The reason I missed this is because the heading didn't mention clock. 

Brass pinion wire is too soft. 

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 2
Posted

Depends on the age of the movement. Early ones were all hand made right down to the screws. Even the later ones you can't just take a wheel from one and put it in another. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Depends on the age of the movement. Early ones were all hand made right down to the screws. Even the later ones you can't just take a wheel from one and put it in another. 

I totally agree that a finding a complete, identical wheel and pinion has about the same probability as winning the lottery jackpot!

 

From an engineering point of view, though, old movements like that do have the advantage that the gears are not a precise constant-contact involute profile like modern gears .

The old ones have simple teeth with parallel sides and rounded ends, so as long as a replacement pinion has a decent engagement depth without binding, the exact tooth profile is not really critical.

Pretty much, it needs to be the same size as the original, measured across two opposing teeth, & it should work fine.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/26/2024 at 11:11 AM, oldhippy said:

Depends on the age of the movement. Early ones were all hand made right down to the screws. Even the later ones you can't just take a wheel from one and put it in another. 

I was more meaning the pinions OH, surely would they have been cut from standard stock...starting from circa ?

On 10/26/2024 at 1:59 PM, rjenkinsgb said:

I totally agree that a finding a complete, identical wheel and pinion has about the same probability as winning the lottery jackpot!

 

From an engineering point of view, though, old movements like that do have the advantage that the gears are not a precise constant-contact involute profile like modern gears .

The old ones have simple teeth with parallel sides and rounded ends, so as long as a replacement pinion has a decent engagement depth without binding, the exact tooth profile is not really critical.

Pretty much, it needs to be the same size as the original, measured across two opposing teeth, & it should work fine.

 

I also thought that Rob and pinion profiles must have been standardised at some point in time.

13 minutes ago, CYCLOPS said:

this might can be straightened and repivoted, one just needs the ways and means......or a competent clockmaker

Its the pinion thats broken Cyclops

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes the later you go the more machines came in to do the work. They were all checked and finished by hand a sort of quality control and they took pride in there work. Unlike today most couldn't give a hoot as long as they get paid.  

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...