Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all!

I've been reading through related posts, but I'm now selfishly going to start a thread about my own decision making -- and asking for your help.

I have a good offer for this fully automatic machine from Glashütte, fully functional but old. 

image.thumb.png.0bfef8cb73dfba585a21cad9eb6fdad2.png

here's a video of a very similar model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zN6-pYeAC_E&t=2s

Pros: 

- fully automatic

Cons:

- NO heated drying function! (maybe a DIY solution could be added to this machine, though)

- what to do if something breaks?? (forget about spare parts)

Cost: 350 Euros

 

Alternatively, I saw this "Kiwi" DIY machine, which sounds interesting. I am not capable of figuring out a DIY setup myself (despite this cool thread on this forum: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/24066-diy-rotary-cleaning-machine/page/6/#comment-262189), so I'd rely on this Kiwi guide (which tells you exactly what parts to buy and gives you the files for 3D printing).

Seller link --> https://www.diywatchcleaner.com/

Youtube review --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2cZArF0hQc&t

 

 

Pros: 

- spare parts easy to get if needed

- heated drying

Cons:

- manual operation

Cost: 400-500 Euros

 

 

What are your thoughts?

Cheers!

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Knebo said:

Cost: 400-500 Euros

And how much included your work hours for making, assembling and maybe fault finding?

You will get a top used Elma for that money that usually last for ever.

I would take the automatic. They were made for pro’s use and will also last. A bit service and grease may be no bad idea.

Frank

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, praezis said:

And how much included your work hours for making, assembling and maybe fault finding?

Certainly a factor. But on the plus side, you can then easily fix things that may break. The opposite is true for the Glashütte machine. 

4 hours ago, praezis said:

You will get a top used Elma for that money that usually last for ever.

Have you recently seen one for that price? I'm usually seeing at least 700 for good ones.

 

4 hours ago, praezis said:

I would take the automatic.

How about the lack of heated drying?

Posted
11 hours ago, praezis said:

Also on E***.de?

You mean kleinanzeigen.de ? The cheapest I found there was 730 Eur.

On *bay.de, I found one for 400, but it doesn't look to be in good condition and is without the cleaning baskets. The next cheapest one is 600 (also without baskets) and then 800/900.

Would you choose an Elma Elite (manual, but with heating) over the automatic Glashütte machine? If so, I'll keep looking.

Posted

Well well, so I DID find a good-looking deal on Kleinanzeigen.de. The seller didn't put "watch"/"Uhr" in the ad title/description... so I didn't find it at first. 

Apparently fully functional and pretty complete. 

It's only missing two sets of wave breakers (which is a bit annoying, as I could only find them for a total of 70Eur at HSWalsh). 

The specific machine is from 1954. Any feedback how this very old machine may differ or be worse than less-old vintage machines (the blue ones)? 

Screenshot_20241001_130527_Chrome.thumb.jpg.6321fbc17e2ed6dac73fdf1b2c5e1ad7.jpgScreenshot_20241001_130552_Chrome.thumb.jpg.d8b71f3073bc7ebc49fc485027f3d57c.jpg

Posted

Wave breakers in the rinse jars are not essential.

I found Elma always very helpful and they are still in business! But you have to decide in the end.

Frank

  • Thanks 1
Posted
44 minutes ago, praezis said:

Wave breakers in the rinse jars are not essential.

Ah ok, interesting. Do you know why? I'm just curious about the difference between cleaning and rinsing in this regard.

 

45 minutes ago, praezis said:

I found Elma always very helpful and they are still in business! But you have to decide in the end.

I'm indeed leaning towards the Elma now! Compared to the Glashütte, the absence of the automatic also means less things that can break. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Knebo said:

The specific machine is from 1954. Any feedback how this very old machine may differ or be worse than less-old vintage machines (the blue ones)? 

Identical as far as I know. I had one of the blue ones as part of a "package deal" but I sold it. I'm still using my vintage white one.

I have made an enclosure with a fan because of the ammonia-smell.

17277926401034233190127161457564.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted
Just now, caseback said:

Identical as far as I know. I had one of the blue ones as part of a "package deal" but I sold it. I'm still using my vintage white one.

I have made an enclosure with a fan because of the ammonia-smell.

17277926401034233190127161457564.jpg

wow, nice! 

 

Posted
On 9/30/2024 at 3:18 PM, Knebo said:

NO heated drying function! (maybe a DIY solution could be added to this machine, though)

- what to do if something breaks?? (forget about spare parts)

Forget all this fandangled stuff,  cleaning watch parts is just like cleaning your clothes. Spin them backwards and forwards in good cleaning solutions with some added agitation if required, spin off the excess fluid and hang em out to dry........ah the random shite that us penny-pinchers do to get by 😄

17279862844319082021750665960455.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Posted

I don't think the heater is necessary, or at least not in my setup. I do the final rinse in IPA and then spin dry. After that I blow dry jewels with a puffer because the spinning doesn't get rid of everything. Theoretically puffer is better than a heater because if there's some crap dissolved in the IPA it remains on the surfaces after the IPA evaporates.

Posted

How i clean and dry watch parts... cheapy cheap diy fashion, spinning inside a US.  Speed controlled  CW + CCW... DC motor and mini US machine, a lab stand, some bean tins, a modded make up lid,a bit of door panel plastic and a few nuts and bolts, the wing nut acts as a small impeller...it will when i bend the wings over. How rather very simple of me 😅

1728056523023246175225593397512.jpg

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...