Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I need to remove the back of my Elliot Brown Canford in order to replace the battery - something I've done many times before with other watches. I realise that this will mean the watch is no-longer sealed to the original spec, but I don't need this.

The back appears to be attached by 6 socket-headed screws which are less than H1.5, so possibly H0.7 or H0.9. Can anyone confirm the size and/or suggest a source for a good-quality hex bit, or set of bits, to fit them?

Posted

Here's  a picture of the back (from the E B website): image.png.e33a06c2203585eee3764bec00049466.png

Thanks for the link to the Allen keys but, TBH, there's no shortage of suppliers advertising these keys. I was hoping to find a good quality screwdriver bit (or a set) with the appropriate hex ends, but my google-fu has failed me so far. (BTW, there's no need to post the whole link string - everything after "?" is related to tracking.)

Posted

There are not so many that go down to H0.7, and at that size the steel and fabrication need to be good so I'm wary of buying "Chinesium". In the absence of other info, perhaps the answer is to buy a cheap set to find the correct size and then buy a Wera of that size ...

Posted
13 minutes ago, Canford said:

There are not so many that go down to H0.7, and at that size the steel and fabrication need to be good so I'm wary of buying "Chinesium". In the absence of other info, perhaps the answer is to buy a cheap set to find the correct size and then buy a Wera of that size ...

If it’s any help I just measured my iFixit bits and the smaller ones are 0.7 and 0.9 mm. If they would fit they are a bit better than the butter steel so many of the cheap sets are made of.

 

Tom

Posted

Thanks! I hadn't heard of "iFixit", but I see they have an interesting website. A recommendation (even from a stranger 🤔) is better than none, so I've ordered an iFixit set and will report back in case anyone else is interested.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

A follow-up, in case it's of interest to anyone.

The back of the Canford is held on by the 6 hex-headed screws. They need a 1.5mm key, but the sockets are very shallow so the key end must be absolutely flat and that's what caught me out.
I had forgotten that my watch was still under warranty, which would be invalidated if I were to change the battery, so I'll be sending it back to EB this time 😞

The iFixit "Mako" set arrived quickly from Amazon and has a useful collection of pieces that appear to be well made - only time will tell.

Edited by Canford
To add the name of the iFixit set
  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...