Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I would like to screw some movement screws into a block in order to work on their heads.... and also I would like a block to be able to test screw sizes and thread sizes...

 

Does such a thing exist?

 

I have one of these:

 

51sTR7IkrFL._AC_.thumb.jpg.d22d259239a43b40195944da862d51e9.jpg

Edited by JeremyLaurenson
Added detail
Posted

I think you'll find there are too many sizes and pitches of thread across different brands for it to be possible.

I've been considering one of these that may work to hold screws but would probably make some plastic jaws.

You could try putting rodico in the holes but not sure if this would hold the screws well enough.

image.png.6e7780cd8311cd304f630f6cf9c37387.png

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, JeremyLaurenson said:

I would like to screw some movement screws into a block in order to work on their heads....

Does such a thing exist?

 

 

 

Usually one can use the main plate of the movement without the bridges for this purpose. Or the main plate from some useless movement with the same thread size of the screws.

The best results gives working on 3 screws together at a time. As a plain is determined by 3 points.

Edited by nevenbekriev
Posted (edited)

I like working with polishing sets like the one discribed in this topic.

They come with a selection of brass collets (soft..) to hold the screws so you can work on the heads. Often, they also contain special holders to enable work on the threads and even the tips (of one's OCD gets into overdrive..).

Edited by caseback
Posted

Similar to @caseback my suggestion would to be make a simple screw polishing tripod and it can be used as a screw vice as well as flattening/black polishing screw heads. 
 

here is one such thread which should help.

 

Tom

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...