Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

As I've seen multiple posts here about multiple types of cleaning solvents, I've done little more than confuse myself more thoroughly that I was before. To see if I understand things correctly...

1.  Is One dip is a solvent which is a cleaner and also a protective rinse for hairsprings jewels and pallet stones only? Or can it be used on all the parts (like the case and wheels and all the things) It seems like that would be much easier as it's just "one dip" but it is very expensive.

2. Isopropyl alcohol is a great cleaner for manual cleaning or ultrasonic cleaning (only enclosed jar) just not on pallet fork as it may loosen the shellac holding the stones. Does it have to be 99%?

3. When buying a small manual cleaning brushes, does anybody suggest a certain material of the brush itself? 

 

Posted
2 hours ago, BObsagat said:

As I've seen multiple posts here about multiple types of cleaning solvents, I've done little more than confuse myself more thoroughly that I was before. To see if I understand things correctly...

1.  Is One dip is a solvent which is a cleaner and also a protective rinse for hairsprings jewels and pallet stones only? Or can it be used on all the parts (like the case and wheels and all the things) It seems like that would be much easier as it's just "one dip" but it is very expensive.

2. Isopropyl alcohol is a great cleaner for manual cleaning or ultrasonic cleaning (only enclosed jar) just not on pallet fork as it may loosen the shellac holding the stones. Does it have to be 99%?

3. When buying a small manual cleaning brushes, does anybody suggest a certain material of the brush itself? 

 

Correct one dip is expensive when the chemical is purchased as " one dip " which is why it is mostly reserved for these two small parts as far as information tells us it is mostly tetrachloroethylene. I use it bought as perchloroethyl used in dry cleaning processes, i cant say I'm overimpressed with it though it appears to me to be shellac safe. What may be a better solution for hairsprings is a high lab grade of pure benzine.  IPA is mostly used as a rinse and water displacer and yes it does have the potential to dissolve shellac, personally i would not buy anything that has significant water dilution so 99.9% IPA is the way to go. And lastly the part you are cleaning dictates your choice of cleaning brush, delicate parts like a hairspring requires the finest artist's brush you can find. Plates and bridges can take a little more scrubbing, but always check to make sure the surface is being unharmed. And dont forget a stick of tip benzine soaked correctly shaped pegwood is your mate set up for cleaning dirty jewels and removing stubborn dried up lubrication. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, BObsagat said:

just not on pallet fork as it may loosen the shellac holding the stones.

Just to add to what @Neverenoughwatches says, the impulse jewel on the balance wheel is also held in by shellac, so avoid exposing the assembly to IPA as well - as stated the one-dip and generic tetrachloroethylene equivalent is safe with shellac so you can use this for your pallet fork and balance assembly.

29 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

99.9% IPA is the way to go

I agree, but worth noting that IPA readily soaks up water, even from the atmosphere: "IPA exposed to the air will absorb moisture rapidly until it reaches an equilibrium value of 65% IPA to 35% water." So you need to refresh it regularly. 

 

 

Just to add to my previous post here is some more interesting information on IPA that I found:

Source

"For a start, IPA is neither a very effective nor very versatile cleaner. IPA’s cleaning ability is limited to human body oil and iconic salts but not much more. IPA is not effective on mineral oils and most hand lotions. IPA does not clean oils and greases very well. Because fiber optics have now expanded into mining, oil fields, as well as telecom networks and data centers, selecting “the right stuff” becomes an essential best practice.

Drying speed is another issue with IPA. Slow-drying IPA can be trapped inside a fiber-optic connector. This once-pure liquid may leach out inconveniently and contaminate an endface. A familiar characteristic of any liquid is its boiling point; the lower the boiling point, the faster a liquid will evaporate. Water boils at 100 degrees Celsius and dries slowly; alcohol boils at 78 degrees Celsius so it dries slowly as well. Many companies have introduced new cleaning choices that boil near room temperature. These cleaners will “flash dry” and will not leave contamination or moisture trapped on the fiber.

IPA has another unexpected characteristic; it is hygroscopic, which means it attracts moisture to itself. Studies of 99.9-percent IPA reveal that a bottle of IPA in an open container will lose 7 percent of its strength in as little as 15 minutes. IPA continues to absorb moisture until it reaches equilibrium at about 65 percent. This is why the “rubbing alcohol” purchased at a local store is about 30-percent water. The manner in which the cleaner is packaged is critical to its performance."

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
    • How long had it been without any wind before you first put it on the timegrapher?  Perhaps there was some debris / old lubricant that loosened up while you were waiting to do the 24 hour reading? I recently serviced a Seiko 6319 that immediately after service was absolutely horrible on the timegrapher - 24 hours later (without me doing anything) it was rock solid!  I was a little surprised by this (as I have seen improvements in amplitude after letting it run in but never a watch going from useless to great!). I was suspicious that some dirt must still be in there so I took it apart and cleaned and lubcricated it again and had exactly the same experience - snow storm that after some hours turned into a nice straigh line with good amplitude 🤷‍♂️
    • Yes, I know it was able to run before just enough that everything supposed to be affixed with shellac could fall out. I won't get back to work on this watch for several days at least, but one thing you mentioned about the banking pin adjustments being intended for fork horn clearance got me wondering.... The last adjustment I made to the entry stone yesterday did not solve the problem when the balance is installed. The escape teeth can't quite clear the stone when the balance swings. But I thought it was going to work because manually snapping the fork back and forth did allow the escape wheel to advance almost all the time. I wonder if there's another issue with the impulse jewel, that I have to shellac again anyway. I am going to measure the fork slot and the jewel because I am curious if it is the right size or possibly narrower than it should be. My thinking is if the horn clearance is too great maybe it is not getting enough impulse to clear the escape tooth. But pushing the fork with a tool can move it far enough to clear the escape wheel tooth.  I'll see later in the week. I didn't expect a big challenge from this watch because it ticked for 5 minutes before stopping without shellac. As always I was way wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...