Jump to content

Low cost approach for high magnification photos


Recommended Posts

I saw a mention in one thread with the OP saying they could not take good photos of a watch movement they were asking about, so I thought I'd post my ultra-cheapo method:

A local second hand shop had a stack of the nasty looking "clip on" lens kits for smartphones; they were priced at 50p so I got one out of curiosity. I didn't even try they for weeks, until I was struggling to take a high enough magnification of a damaged piece of jewellery, for a friend.

The "macro" lens in these kits is actually amazing, it's very effective - and the full kits around only around £3 to £4 on ebay.

The first photos are the particular 50p lens kit I got, and the lens I'm using from that, then examples photos, using my iphone with the macro lens in the clip and approximately centred over the camera lens. It does need a good light, and finding the exact height for best focus can be tricky sometimes, but the results are worth it. The movement is a Junghans calibre 73 from ebay:

IMG_2101.thumb.jpg.a25f07ee8f69c788886ca3e65b52dac0.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_2103.thumb.jpg.a54904496d09e71d914a5668140df14c.jpg

 

IMG_2104.thumb.jpg.d6b8c16e47801ea0e7caea089e1bb4a3.jpg

 

IMG_2105.thumb.jpg.59693c751e8803466491597f758b13f7.jpg

 

IMG_2106.thumb.jpg.6b1ab11c9eb4614462f22740caade922.jpg

 

 

Edited by rjenkinsgb
Detail clarification
  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
    • Not easy to find this one everywhere,  so it depends where you are located. Joining it back together might be possible, i have silver soldered mild steel before even with traditional plumbers lead and its a pretty strong joint, but bere in mind this is only 1mm diameter.  The join would need to be very accurate,  it not something i have heard of anyone trying before. The part no 401 is the swiss code number and relates to watch winding stems in general
    • Thanks everyone for your helpful replies. I think between us we’ve worked out what’s going on. Next job is to have a proper look at this great wheel assembly, see if I can remove the clip and the friction fit pinion, give the bits a good clean, then put it back together with a bit of blue grease. I’ll also get the pallet fork under the microscope to see if it’s ok or been damaged. 
    • The cannon pinion (be it conventional style or what you see in this movement) should slip on its arbour so the hands can be set independently without affecting the gear train.  If there is too much friction between the cannon pinion and the second wheel, turning the hands to set them backwards can sometimes force the escape wheel teeth to overrun the pallet stones, creating the behaviour you describe. The train is running in reverse when this happens.  This can often chip the pallet stones. I’d say at least half of the watches I’ve inspected with very tight cannon pinions had chipped pallet stones. Hopefully this isn’t the case with your watch.  I’m not familiar with this movement but you need to get the friction in the cannon pinion adjusted correctly.  Hope this helps, Mark
    • Pallet fork was in. I’d had the movement running ok, and only removed the balance to flip it over and install the keyless works and date mechanism. The pallet fork wasn’t locking the gear train when hand setting - it was oscillating as the escape wheel rotated. This may have been in one direction only - can’t remember. 
×
×
  • Create New...