Jump to content

I learned something today!


Recommended Posts

If something looks super delicate, it probably is!

(yes, that's the dial side shock setting spring thing snapped in half!)

Fortunately this was my "learning" movement, the seagull st3601 that I've been following Mr. Lovick's lessons with. Now, I could try to source the part, and I think I might make an intellectual exercise of it, but I don't imagine that it's worth the shipping for a learning device to repair rather than get another movement and try again.

On the bright side, I learned a bunch in this teardown, and the train of wheels went together very nicely, and it was the first time I'd wound a mainspring (using the rs-winders 3D printed winding tools) so on the whole, this was a positive despite the failure.

IMG_0176.jpeg.4b6a19a06ef72537320f42566d06160a.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm just about to dive into this today, having watched the courses (and built a bunch of Seiko mods).

You now have a parts movement, if nothing else. I'm glad I actually have two ST36s to play with, three if I count the Rotate kit I built and never wear. 🙂

Thanks for the pointer to the RS winders. So I can get my printer going, (and because I haven't taken anything apart yet) what size is the ST36 barrel?

-Zandr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Zandr said:

what size is the ST36 barrel?

The largest winder I had printed was the 12.5 and it was probably 'too' small Probably could have used a 14.5 or 15 from the large set that I haven't printed yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, nrm said:

The largest winder I had printed was the 12.5 and it was probably 'too' small Probably could have used a 14.5 or 15 from the large set that I haven't printed yet.

Gotcha. I'm printing a full set at 15.0 now, I'll run a 14.5 winder and plunger as soon as that finishes.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've bought brands like Citizen, Seiko, Titoni, Tissot, Roamer. Strange thing is many of them were using ST96 movements. I'm not sure if the ST96 is original to that model or whether it was a replacement movement.  All the watches with nice looking dials were obviously refurbished, after-market dials. And all of them had over-polished watchcases. Some of them had non-original hairsprings, rejewelled pallet forks, watch crystals that don't fit and glued in with a generous amount of glue. One of them was totally not working because the pallet jewel was loose to the point that it almost fell off. But the sellers were very nice. The seller of the non-working watch gave me a complete refund. Some of them gave partial refunds. I would say don't by luxury watches on the internet, regardless of the country the seller is from. Don't believe the "serviced by master watchmaker" statement. Have realistic expectations. ( Do expect the occasional complete junk.) Do expect to do a complete overhaul and major repairs. Otherwise, watches from Mumbai are great. For clocks.... I'm not so sure.
    • In 2020,I picked up an Orient Mako II online. It ran at +15 seconds per day and after 3 years of resets more than weekly, it was time to crack the seal and take a shot at regulating it. Not having a timegrapher, I used a spreadsheet to track the time, referenced the Canadian NRC website, wore the watch between adjustments, and used the back end of some tweezers to lightly tap the regulator daily until it ran to within one second per day.   Two months later, it’s still running to within 1 second per day when measured over a week or longer, while daily variations are up to 9 seconds per day. For my purposes, its overall stability is surprisingly good. Is this method of adjustment “better” than adjusting to 5 positions using a timegrapher, since during the adjustment period the watch is already in the environment in which it’ll be used? Rob in Winnipeg 
    • Nice file  Just got old pocket watch in and tools,  can I get it back together or should I give up.  we'll see  thanks for the info
    • @HectorLooi Yes, I would say that Mumbai has the highest liquidity in terms used watches. How was your experience with these used watches and what watch brands did you buy used? I have always found the vintage luxury watch segment in India a bit shady. Quite a few are genuine watches with genuine matching parts but just not from the same one.
    • Interesting interpretation of "traditional". I would say that Loctite is definitely the up-to-date and appropriate stuff to use, however, it is a relatively modern solution. Before the advent of such esoteric solutions I believe that the "traditional" thread locker of choice may well have been a sugar solution. Once applied the water would evaporate and the sugar would crystalise, locking the threads tight.
×
×
  • Create New...