Jump to content

Oiling capped train wheel jewels


Recommended Posts

I've always struggled to get a nice looking oil distribution under capped train wheel jewels, as the hole jewel is flat.
The distance between the hole and cap jewels is variable, so it's not easy to get a nice circular blob of oil as you would with a balance jewel. 

I mention this now, as I'm working on a FEF 380, manual wind, with 21 Jewels - so all train wheels are capped top and bottom.

I use Fixodrop on the caps, and some have a nice circular blob of oil, but others where there is less distance between the hole and cap jewels, it just spreads out. And where there is a larger gap, it looks a mess.

I guess that's just the way it is.

Also this movement has a cap on the bottom pallet pivot (to borrow from the bard) : To oil, or not to oil, that is the question. 🤣

(from the shape of the lower pivot, I think maybe?)

 

image.png.c80d74557978cef30b40e6bca56e37a2.png

image.thumb.png.2b93f41d3e091477f7f78367c5e267f1.png

 

Edited by mikepilk
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rank amateur here, so take this for what it's worth. On the last movement I did with capped train jewels like in your picture, I did the same thing, trying to get a drop of oil on the cap jewel just like a balance jewel, and had the same failure.

What I finally realized is the jewels in the plate have an oil sink facing the bottom of the cap jewel instead of a domed face like a balance jewel.

This led me to believe I should just oil the pivot as I normally would and then put the cap on. There's no reason the oil sink wouldn't work exactly as it would in any other watch, I reasoned, and the cap jewel doesn't do the same job as it would for a balance.

To illustrate: normal balance and bridge jewels:

2eb0003b992a466d072583f39a9eec83--cross-section-perspective-165099884.jpg.15519c426d3b29e7ebf4d607cf1ce5cc.jpg

And what I found in the watch I just did:

image.png.b26bf70d00f10f55f12204d9e36398a5.png

 

So I don't know if yours is the same, but that's my 2c worth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

What I finally realized is the jewels in the plate have an oil sink facing the bottom of the cap jewel instead of a domed face like a balance jewel.

image.png.b26bf70d00f10f55f12204d9e36398a5.png

I have never seen jewels like this. I can see no point in having the cap. I suggest that someone has put the jewels in upside down. 

I recently had a similar problem where I had to replace the balance jewels, as they were flat, not domed.

Edited by mikepilk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

This led me to believe I should just oil the pivot as I normally would and then put the cap on. There's no reason the oil sink wouldn't work exactly as it would in any other watch, I reasoned, and the cap jewel doesn't do the same job as it would for a balance.

Yes, what I do, though I was told the cap jewel function is same as the escapement and the convex cup serves to help center the oil. More economical watches might have flat jewels under a cap. It's all a bit odd I agree, but any excuse to get the jewel count up..

Edited by rehajm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
    • When can you use a standard crystal to replace one that had a tension ring? The first time I popped a crystal with a tension ring out of a watch I found that I had a suitable sized standard crystal and decided to try that.  It fit nicely and it was hard to see that anything was missing from the watch.  I understand that it probably reduced the water resistance of the watch but since it was an old dress watch it wasn't going for a swim anyway! I have since tried the same thing on another watch and found that the tension ring seemed to have an additional role of holding the dial in place.  With the standard crystal in there the dial and movement falls forward. This means it rattles in the case and falls forward and the hands fowl on the crystal (when the dial is down). Is there a trick I am missing here or does this watch require a special crystal?  I am reluctant to buy an expensive armoured crystal only to find I have the same problem.  
    • So I wrapped the anvil it in bubble wrap and passed ot through the demag only. Still no go—the unit is simply too strong.  next experiment is to use a VARIAC to lower the voltage and see if that reduces the magnetic field. 
    • In this case, the underside of the crystal is flat so I assume I don't have to worry about clearance to the hands. However, perhaps I'm missing something. If so, please let me know. I guess no one has the patience to get into the details of my first post so here's a simplified version of my question: The case diameter for the glass gasket is 36.9mm. However, Cousins doesn't have a glass gasket with that diameter. The closest are 36.8mm and 37.0mm. Would any of those two options work, and if so which one? I have no problem ordering both and testing them, but If someone already knows it is pointless, there's no reason to order. No, I haven't. Is there someone you can recommend? Preferably in Europe. Thanks!
    • No. It's incredibly volatile and evaporates in seconds; there is no way it would last as long as it took to just install the part cleaned in it, in the movement.  
×
×
  • Create New...