Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I'm currently 3D printing a new basket and trays for my Pearl machine - I printed one last week in PETG material and it worked well at first. I had taken a calibration cube and soaked it in old cleaning fluid for 8 weeks and then measured it, and there was no discernable swelling or shrinkage and the cube seemed mechanically intact. All went well after the cleaning cycles and then onto the drying cycle..... that's when things went awry. The heat was more than I was expecting and the basket and individual trays warped and deformed, I later found out that PETG is rated to 65°C working temperature (PLA = 54°C)

I am now trying to print from nylon (working temperature = +/- 100°C, depending on the specific blend) - but it is extremely difficult to print with, my third attempt is chugging away now while I am at work - hopefully I don't go home to a ball of wool like last time! 

Assuming the heating compartment can't go higher than 100°C.... but not second guessing myself...anyone have any ideas or measured it?

I also have a question on the trays, maybe I'm not seeing the obvious, but how do you use the ones identified with the arrow? they are called 

Basket_for_large_mainplate_and_mainspring.stl
Basket_for_small_mainplate_and_mainspring.stl

I can see the place for the mainplate, but how are you supposed to place the mainspring, you can't uncoil the mainspring to fit around the outer circumference of the tray or else you would damage the inner tight coils. Is the idea that you supposed to lay it on top of the mainplate?

image.png.82a415c3b032871cb1236956efe7bfc3.png

Edited by Waggy
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neverenoughwatches.

I did read your experience with the basket. I did try to file mine to true it up..but I couldn't find the sweet spot.

I figured I would just bite the bullet and get the Elma components.

 

Thanks


Randy

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Randy55 said:

Neverenoughwatches.

I did read your experience with the basket. I did try to file mine to true it up..but I couldn't find the sweet spot.

I figured I would just bite the bullet and get the Elma components.

 

Thanks


Randy

I could only improve it, its still not perfect, the slight bit of wobble left seems to add to the agitation.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

the slight bit of wobble left seems to add to the agitation.

you mean your improved 3D oscillation design upgrade

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Yes exactly scott, i managed to make it run perfectly true and then reintroduced some calculated wobble using a special formula that i created myself .🙂

Is your special formula called Bovine Excrement ? Hehe. 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That was my gut feeling as indicated in my previous post. The total time in water is 15 minutes which seems too long. I go half that time at room temperature. I go six minutes of cleaning in Elma Red 1:9, less than two minutes of rinsing in battery water, and about two minutes in IPA. Depending on how dirty the movement is I get a fairly good result. For a near-perfect result, I need to pre-clean the parts by brushing them off in a degreaser and then in some IPA.
    • Yes, the screw seems to be forced in the smaller hole. In such case the screws will not unscrew when drilled with reverse drill bit. You option is to dissolve it. And yes, it is possible to drill a hole in it, then to press tappered broach in and try to unscrew, but it is much harder way.
    • You have plenty there to keep yourself busy 
    • So that is what the last person to work on this movement appears to have done.  There was a "wad" of adhesive material in the vicinity of that hole when I took the dial off.  I was hoping to take the high road and fix the issue in the work I did on this movement. I wasn't sure if I was imagining things or not when I looked at the screw hole, but it does appear to be somewhat distended.  I had not considered the posibility that someone had forced a screw that too big in there.  I had wondered about using a technique I've applied in other applications (where the screws are in the same scale as human hands) that involves counter drilling the plug with a  reverse threaded tap.  When I've had to do that in the past, the screw has generally caught and backed out from the torque on the tap (instead of yielding and letting the tap bore into it.)  I don't like doing that, but it's saved my rear a couple of times, but the smallest bolt I've tried that on had a 5 mm head.  This is an entirely different ball of wax. I am still contemplating disolving the screw with alum, even if that means I have to stick the dial down with double sided tape until I gain the skills to actually replace the screw.
    • Hi Thomas, you should be able to find the right (or on close to beeing) in a Ronda or DCN balance staff catalogue. Cousins uk have those available as a download.
×
×
  • Create New...