Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone, I have a Landeron 149 movement with an annoying problem I can't figure out. When the chronograph is pressed the minute chrono hand moves back slightly, throwng the minute recording off. Observing the movement, I can see that the sliding gear moves slightly when I engage the chrono, shifting the minute runner. I made sure that the central runner dart does not hit the sliding gear when I start the chronograph, so not sure why the sliding gear and minute runner are moving.

Getting the eccentrics right on this one was a pain, so before I go adjusting them again I was wondering if there might be another solution.

IMG_4012.JPG

Posted

Try moving the minute finger on the chrono runner a bit forward (counter clockwise looking at the movement side). When the sliding gear comes down it's catching it and moving it backwards, then the finger trips a minute in the first few seconds.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Thank you silver. The minute counter seems to be working properly now.

However now for some reason the stop function doesn't work now. I can start the chrono, but cannot stop it. I can manually move the Chrono to the stop position, but not with the pusher button. The return pusher works fine. I've attached a photo of the movement with the chrono off and with the chrono on. 

IMG_4019.JPG

IMG_4018.JPG

Edited by watchfellow
Posted

You might already know this and there's another issue, but this chrono does both stop and zero with the zero or flyback lever. Start with operating lever, stop with flyback, then you can start again with operating lever or zero by pushing the flyback again.

 

The function of that lever is a little tricky to adjust if needed; when stopping, it pushes the operating lever down, which moves the cam/hammers toward the center- the end of the flyback also acts as a stop, keeping the cam/hammer from going all the way to zero. When the flyback is then released, is should return to its neutral position. If it is restricted from doing so, some careful filing is necessary where it's contacting the cam/hammer to allow it. Not too much, as the contact with the cam to zero is very small. Before filing anything, check that the cam jumper is fully seating in the notch for the wanted position first. If it's not, find out why and fix it. Which brings us to:

 

These movements can be very particular about lubrication. Everything that moves, slides, pivots, needs to be greased in the chrono. There are numerous shouldered screws holding things down and acting as pivot points, these need to be greased. Also check them for freedom with their part; there are several that are the same (the ones just holding things down), but they may have been adjusted for a particular location and switching them might mean binding of a part. If a component was replaced, the associated screw may need adjusting by undercutting the head or the shoulder with chrono screw cutters or in the lathe.

 

 

  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...