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Removing Pearl Westminster Clock Movement


TimeWerks

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I have a grandfather clock that stopped that I needed to take the movement out to service it.  I could not find instructions anywhere for this type of clock case so thought I would post how to remove the movement.  The back of the clock does not have a rear service panel (even though the user manual that came with the clock says it does!), and the hood of the clock does not slide off the front as in older clocks.  It was not obvious how to remove the movement on initial inspection.

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The movement is an 8 day cable driven westminster+ chime, and was distributed in 1980 by Pearl Clocks from Memphis TN.  The markings were #84, with the number 1161-853A, which led me to understand that it was a Hermle movement.  I have the Hermle Service manual but it is vague about removing movements because each clock distributer will have different ways to install the movements.  Some through the side, back or even front.  For this movement which has striking arms on either side of a set of chimes that runs between them, it did not appear that I could remove it from either side.  The back of the clock case is solid (no access panel, so I had to figure out how to remove the moon face plate.

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Step 1, removed the weights.  The 10.5 inch pendulum bob meant there will be two 7.7 pound weights and one 9.9 pound weight, that must be replaced in the same positions you removed them from.  They are hooked to the wheels right above them and simply need to be lifted off.  

I used gloves, labelled each weight with a piece of tape on the bottom of each, and placed the weights in socks to protect them.  I  put them in the bottom of the case. I gently disconnected the pendulum from the hanger by lifting up so I could clear the post the pendulum hangs on and put it in the bottom of the case as well.

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Step 2, removed the hands.  I set the time to midnight, just as general practice. (in case I don't have to fully disassemble the movement).   Finger tight nut over the minute hand was removed, and although I could have pulled the hour hand off, I used a clock hand puller to not put stress on the center wheel.

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Step 3, removed the panels on either side of the clock.  You need to grasp the panel and push it up to get the panel out of the bottom slot it sits in, the pull it down to clear the top slot.  Finally twist it and take the panel right out.  Note: panels on cases will vary, but that is how the pearl case from 1984 worked.

Step 4, unlocked the face from the movement.  Four sliding levers connect to pillar posts protruding from the dial.  (sometimes there are pins that have to be removed from the posts instead of a sliding lever).  The first picture shows the lock in place, the second is with the piller post unlocked.

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Step 5, removed the screws attaching the seatboard from the case (the wooden piece the clock movement sits on).

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Step 6, pushed the seatboard with the movement back a bit in the case so the center wheel was inside the dial face.  This allowed me to next remove the dial face once the center wheel shaft was clear.  I could only move the seatboard back so far before the striking hammers were pressed against the back of the case.

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The yellow arrow shows that only have moved half of the seat board slot out from the case.

The red arrow shows the reason I could not move back any further because the striking arms are pushed up against the back.

The green arrow shows the center wheel arbor clear of the dial now.

Step 7, removed the dial (and moon dial) assembly.  Four twisting plastic lever hold the dial pressed against the front of the case.  I twisted the top two and was able to push the dial in and push the dial up to clear the slot it sat in.  Then twisted the dial to remove it out the front opening.

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Step 8, loosened the two bolts that hold the movement in place on the seatboard.  Ended up removing them completely so I could easily remove the movement without hassles otherwise.  

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Note:  Before I loosed and removed the bolts, I marked on the seat board where the movement sat so I could replace it in exactly the same place as before.  

Then simply leaned the movement forward making sure not to mangle any of the bits that were hanging off the clock.  

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 With the movement out I could now actually read the movement number that was not readily visible and service the clock properly.

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Hope this is helpful.

 

 

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Thank you so much for documenting this!!! I inherited my grandfather's nearly identical grandfather clock a few years ago, and I'm fairly certain it's never been serviced. It runs just fine, and keeps decent enough time, but I stopped winding it a while ago (once I knew it didn't have any issues) because I wanted to not add to the decades of wear unnecessarily. I poked around in it to try to figure out how to get the movement out, but it was not immediately obvious. The manual, as you stated, is less than helpful, or even accurate. This just moved way up the to-do list thanks to your fine work!

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