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311991539_CM220610-0613130012.thumb.jpg.47154bfa692d7d584ad657089284b060.jpg

I received this watch in a large assortment of watches and movements about a year or so ago.

I assigned very little value to the crushed Lorsa P72 inside, disassembling it just for the practice.CM211224-123654003.thumb.jpg.72de46dc58ac5c6913b4c3b761aa5cb7.jpg

The inside of the dial had the outline of the hour wheel and the main plate had the shape of the cannon pinion coind into their respective surfaces.

Setting all of the pieces aside for quite some time I finally realized that I already had several replacement main plates for this movement.CM211224-123705004.thumb.jpg.c5ec91d8e35e7988c87033249ad7fb86.jpg

I settled on this orphaned plate, salvaging the jewels needed from the old plate and reinstalling them into this one.  I also found a replacement hour wheel, escape wheel, cannon pinion and crystal from the many piles of used parts that I have been slowly sorting through.  Several jewels, even some that I did not have out, needed to be adjusted in and/or out to aquire the requisite end shake, as well as the resulting engagement between one wheel and another within the train.  I also needed to recurve the flattened dial to clear the newly installed hand work.

As of today, I have been wearing it all week, pre regulation, and it has been consistently running about thirty seconds/day slow with a slight beat error.  I will be adjusting the beat error and regulating it this weekend.

My first intentions were to replace the dial, center wheel (it lost the second hand arbor when it got crushed) and find a replacement sweep but this ZOMBIE of a watch has been growing on me, as is (shown above).

Thanks for looking.

Shane

 

Edited by Shane
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    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
    • Once you are aware of the problem, you can adjust as necessary. I have a couple of the Omega 10xx, and they are not my favourites. They seem a bit flimsy and not as solid as previous generation Omega. But I think that's true of a lot of movements from the 70-80s. For me, the 50-60s is the peak in watch movements, where the design criteria was quality, not saving the last penny.
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