Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’ve just started tinkering with mechanical watches and I’d appreciate help/input from the more experienced people here

 

I bought a cheap Seiko 7005 watch from eBay to experiment with. The watch was running (albeit not very accurately) when it arrived but the power reserve wasn’t good

 

I stripped down the movement to inspect the parts and prepare for cleaning

 

The first stages of the strip down were fine. I was following Seiko’s documentation and various videos on YouTube. However I became confused when I got to the stage where I needed to remove power from the movement so I could detach the ratchet wheel

 

I know that power removal involves disengaging the click from the ratchet wheel. However I discovered that the click in my 7005 had snapped and was never engaged with the wheel in the first instance. All that’s left of my click is the stepped part that slots into the base plate, the ‘arm’ of the click that actually engages with the wheel has gone. I’m guessing that the click was broken by the last person to open the case

 

This isn’t a problem per se, a replacement click for a 7005 won’t break the bank

 

My question: How come the movement could run without a click? I thought the click was crucial to the watch being wound. How could my 7005 wind itself without a click? Am I missing something here?

Posted

That's because the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring to unwind by itself. In fact, to unwind the MS in these watches you need to first remove the 2nd reduction wheel and then you can hold the click and unwind it.

  • Like 2
Posted
47 minutes ago, aac58 said:

That's because the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring to unwind by itself. In fact, to unwind the MS in these watches you need to first remove the 2nd reduction wheel and then you can hold the click and unwind it.

That makes sense, thanks aac58

 

As an extension question, why does a 7005 have a click if the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring unwinding by itself?

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Kingsie said:

That makes sense, thanks aac58

 

As an extension question, why does a 7005 have a click if the auto-winding mechanism also prevents the mainspring unwinding by itself?

Because the click is designed to hold the spring and the winding mechanism is not, although it does. Probably it's standing a pressure (against the winding direction) that should be supported by the click instead, and that might affect other characteristics, for example the ability to self-wind or the wear of the pawl lever tips and the 2nd reduction wheel teeth. That could explain a poor power reserve, but here I'm just guessing.

Edited by aac58
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, aac58 said:

Because the click is designed to hold the spring and the winding mechanism is not, although it does. Probably it's standing a pressure (against the winding direction) that should be supported by the click instead, and that might affect other characteristics, for example the ability to self-wind or the wear of the pawl lever tips and the 2nd reduction wheel teeth. That could explain a poor power reserve, but here I'm just guessing.

Logical reasoning, thanks

 

I'll give you guys a shout if I need more help with the 7005's rebuild

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have acquired a Citizen Leopard 36000 watch. My reason for purchasing it was my desire to own a timepiece with a 36,000 BPH movement, and the price was reasonable. Another motivating factor was gaining hands-on experience with the mechanism. The watch is in good condition, but I intend to fully disassemble it for maintenance. First and foremost, if anyone has prior experience with this particular model, I would greatly appreciate their insights. I do not have access to Citizen’s specialized lubricants and will need to use the ones available to me, such as 9010, 8000, and 8300 grease. Additionally, I do not possess the appropriate oil for the pallet jewels and will only be able to clean them.
    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
×
×
  • Create New...