Jump to content

A big achievement for me -Seiko Jumbo Chronograph 6138-3002


Recommended Posts

Hello from Canada

I am so happy with my latest restoration/repair that I decided to share with you.

a bit of history first : this watch was bought from a local jewelry in mai 2020. It was in pieces, crappy, broken stem, but otherwise complete. Cheap as it come, I think the jeweller didn’t realize that it was worth more… I bought it as the first watch to play with it, not knowing that it is a complex watch and my experience was, well… zero. Rapidly, I realized that it is over my head as a immediate project and I put it aside, not before playing a bit with the movement and, unfortunately, breaking the upper pivot of the balance. Yes, noobie error, putting pressure on the balance with your finger, I know it (now)!
Several other watches were used to garner some experience and many errors and trials went on and on. I slowly disassembled the watch, cleaned the case and bracelet and decided to change the crystal also (Sternkreuz variant to the Seiko original, thanks to cousins). A new stem was found, and also a new balance complete, thanks to the big bay… I tried to learn and change the balance staff, but I miserably failed, I think I am not there yet…

Finally, two months ago, I had the courage to delve in and disassemble to movement, clean it and put it together again. All went well, with some trial and error also, as the assembly is not always straightforward, ie the chronograph wheel levers and springs… but I succeeded. I learned a lot in the process and there are several small things that I would do again better, but for now, I think the result is more than satisfactory for me.

so there it is: Seiko Jumbo 6139-3002 Chronograph, around 1973, restored somehow at its ancient glory! Only things changed: stem (original NOS), balance complete (Seiko original NOS), crystal (as mentioned). All in all, it is a beautifully preserved watch that I am proud to own. Even the lume is still working, quite faint, but still… 

Movement 6138B, around 230 degrees amplitude, beat error between 0.0 and 0.3 ms, +4s to -2s per day in all positions… power reserve above 42 hours without the chronograph, more or less 41 hours with the chronograph…

It is one of my favorite watches as we speak, and also one of the most accurate!!!
 

32D1FFDC-97D7-4F54-8407-8449E62087D4.jpeg

74D01346-F017-4DFB-AE13-84370ADE54BA.jpeg

5084B6A2-5350-4A4F-9F62-5818A20F12CB.jpeg

EAB7E21D-7979-4321-A4F2-8E48579F8443.jpeg

722537BA-059B-4B22-ABE8-900C80D9ACAE.jpeg

6E03030F-C968-4AFF-B5E0-121362B20E12.jpeg

E0FF3675-4BB9-4734-8DC4-CBB3EC55121C.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Mircea said:

Hello from Canada

I am so happy with my latest restoration/repair that I decided to share with you.

a bit of history first : this watch was bought from a local jewelry in mai 2020. It was in pieces, crappy, broken stem, but otherwise complete. Cheap as it come, I think the jeweller didn’t realize that it was worth more… I bought it as the first watch to play with it, not knowing that it is a complex watch and my experience was, well… zero. Rapidly, I realized that it is over my head as a immediate project and I put it aside, not before playing a bit with the movement and, unfortunately, breaking the upper pivot of the balance. Yes, noobie error, putting pressure on the balance with your finger, I know it (now)!
Several other watches were used to garner some experience and many errors and trials went on and on. I slowly disassembled the watch, cleaned the case and bracelet and decided to change the crystal also (Sternkreuz variant to the Seiko original, thanks to cousins). A new stem was found, and also a new balance complete, thanks to the big bay… I tried to learn and change the balance staff, but I miserably failed, I think I am not there yet…

Finally, two months ago, I had the courage to delve in and disassemble to movement, clean it and put it together again. All went well, with some trial and error also, as the assembly is not always straightforward, ie the chronograph wheel levers and springs… but I succeeded. I learned a lot in the process and there are several small things that I would do again better, but for now, I think the result is more than satisfactory for me.

so there it is: Seiko Jumbo 6139-3002 Chronograph, around 1973, restored somehow at its ancient glory! Only things changed: stem (original NOS), balance complete (Seiko original NOS), crystal (as mentioned). All in all, it is a beautifully preserved watch that I am proud to own. Even the lume is still working, quite faint, but still… 

Movement 6138B, around 230 degrees amplitude, beat error between 0.0 and 0.3 ms, +4s to -2s per day in all positions… power reserve above 42 hours without the chronograph, more or less 41 hours with the chronograph…

It is one of my favorite watches as we speak, and also one of the most accurate!!!
 

32D1FFDC-97D7-4F54-8407-8449E62087D4.jpeg

74D01346-F017-4DFB-AE13-84370ADE54BA.jpeg

5084B6A2-5350-4A4F-9F62-5818A20F12CB.jpeg

EAB7E21D-7979-4321-A4F2-8E48579F8443.jpeg

722537BA-059B-4B22-ABE8-900C80D9ACAE.jpeg

6E03030F-C968-4AFF-B5E0-121362B20E12.jpeg

E0FF3675-4BB9-4734-8DC4-CBB3EC55121C.jpeg

Thats a cracking watch my friend. You did jump in at the deep end there with your first attempt. But very well done for finishing it 👍, you must be very proud of yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, grsnovi said:

Good job! Hope my first real one goes just as well!

Cheap Russian watches served very well to make the experience growing rapidly in my case. Still buying them from Ukraine, by the way… they are well done and usually work after cleaning, changing broken pieces and tweaking a bit. A working watch after all your efforts is the most motivating thing to keep you continuing! And also, a good stereo microscope has facilitated the work a lot!

Good luck to you and keep us posted!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I assume you're using 9415? the concerned with 9415 and I'm attaching a PDF from Omega is too much can cause a decrease in amplitude. This is why you look at what they do they go to extreme lengths to put extremely tiny quantities. so as you've discovered proper lubrication of the escapement increases the amplitude. We've seen it on this group where people are having typically newbies issues and I will ask if they lubricated the escapement the usual answer is no they had not because and once they did they saw spectacular improvement. one of the amusements with lubrication tends to be so many variations. For instance I was in a classroom once and the students all came from for the most part accredited schools in watch repair. So the instructor asked how did we lubricate our escapement's and I don't remember the actual quantity but it's really quite amazing how many people can interpret slightly different ways of doing the same ask. Of course the instructors method was the approved one. This was the place a drop of oil on the impulse face of the exit stone. Allow one third of the teeth to go by and place another drop then another third and your escapement should be lubricated. But sometimes and yes it will show up in the timing machine you'll see in your regular line because if the oil didn't transfer all the way around to the other stone that does cause a issue with the timing machine. Oh but when I was in school we were using 9010 as 9415 did not exist yet although 941 did which is an oil recommended for escapement's. it has to be dissolved in a proper solvent with the right amount of concentration as you want a microscopic layer on whatever your treating. My understanding is the vapor process is the very best but the vapors are not good for human consumption. The reason why the vapor process is nice is that it puts a very very thin coating on versus dipping in a solvent which can vary depending upon the concentration.   8645_WI_40_rules for lubrication cousins.pdf
    • A modern restorer would probably try to inject adhesive as suggested and then weight the repair down. Some damp might have caused the bulge originally.  Traditionally the veneer would have been sliced and glue eased under the two flaps then again weighted back down and refinished once it had cured.  It doesn't look like just an adhesive issue, more than likely expansion of the veneer, worse case it needs a slice taking out. Try some gentle heat on it first , inject glue and weight, to see where it goes.
    • I have seen several mentions of steric acid, how do you use this, I have only seen it in crystal/powder form?
    • Hi @Michael20 I am no furniture man my self but it’s just bits and pieces I have picked up over the years. It just takes patience when dealing with things like the cases but most are veneered plain wood. When they get damp and open up that is a problem
    • I often get an amp drop after i oil the stones with 9415, not sure what difference can be achieved with oiling the teeth.  I guess the oiling surface is very small on a tooth as opposed to on the stones a larger drop might have more drag as the teeth plow through it. I oil with a bristle from a brush now, strangely enough the last movement i oiled five escape teeth and the amp was much higher than i usually get , coincidence ?
×
×
  • Create New...