Jump to content

My First Test Dial Printing...i'm Over The Moon!


DJW

Recommended Posts

nice work, company name a little bit off center:) but still looks great.  

I see thats 12s prepared to cased as wrist watch, would you mind to share how you approached stem installation to wrist case? Originally inner circle with some graving wasnt painted, I wonder how would it look if you did the same. I collect only South Bend watches and thats interesting process for me in terms of restoring old dials to its original condition, as some of dial refinishes do the job but dont pay much attention to factory dials and use different fonts etc. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To answer a few questions...

I use "open office" to do the Dial designs. It's a lot like Microsoft Office Draw program.

It's was quite a long time ago that I did this dial so I've refined a lot since then. I use to have someone develope my printing plates for me, but now make my own.

The stem is original. I reduce the diameter of the treads by turning it on my lathe, then re thread the stem to fit the new crown. I do sometimes have to make new stems if I find a movement that doesn't have one. 

Here are 2 dials I printed last evening. I'm sure you can see how much more refined they look compared to the original dial in this post..:) (The white dial has a little glare from the lights...so the printing doesn't actually fade from dark to light as it appears.)

IMG_20170606_174922.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a screen grab of what the program looks like that I use to design my dials. After the design work is done, I export it as a PDF and then reverse print onto a clear positive film. I cut out the design to match the size of the plate to be printed and place the film printed side down so that the printed side actually touches the plate. This is so no UV light can pass under the film, which is what would happen if I printed the dial not reversed and placed it on the plate....it's a little confusing but if you saw just how it is done it would make sense...

Hamilton Plate.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you use pre-coated plates, expose the plate with the printed film, and then etch? I'm guessing that it took a bit of experimentation to get the exposure and etching times correct for the best detail. I always look at the sub-dials and small text for flaws, and yours looks great!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They look great, cant see much difference from those restoration companies dials. Nice progress with your printing. Thanks for answering question about stem, South Bend 12s are good for casing as wrist watches as they have swiss type of stem, other sizes are more difficult.

Edited by Rafal
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...