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JLC Reverso

IFELL

By IFELL
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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IFELL Watch Enthusiast

IFELL

Posted
Posted

Hello

my friend wants me to look at his Jeager LeCoultre Reverso, mid-size ref. 252.8.86

Does anyone here know what movements did JLC put into these simple hand wound Reversos?
And is there a way to shop for parts if something needs replacing?
Are there any service sheets available?

I won't be able to get my hands on it for some time so that is why I'm asking...
Thanks for any help.

nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

I think that has a 846 movement. Very small, but very straightforward, don't expect ETA timing, be very clean and peg your jewels. The barrel is tiny and you should definitely use a winder. If the spring looks good reuse it, unless you can get a genuine replacement. I may be mixing up with the 845 but one of them has a bushing in the bridge for the center wheel and that's a problem area.

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IFELL Watch Enthusiast

IFELL

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Posted
8 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I think that has a 846 movement.
 

Thanks for the insight. Are there any usual problems which cause the movement to stop?

At this point I am not sure what is the problem with my friend's watch, maybe it doesn't wind or it does wind but doesn't run...I will probably have a chance to take a look at it next week...

nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, IFELL said:

Thanks for the insight. Are there any usual problems which cause the movement to stop?

At this point I am not sure what is the problem with my friend's watch, maybe it doesn't wind or it does wind but doesn't run...I will probably have a chance to take a look at it next week...

No it's really a pretty standard movement. Looking at pics I see that some are jeweled at the center wheel and some not, the ones I've worked on have been older and non jeweled there, and in a couple of cases the center wheel upper pivot was quite worn and the bushing trashed. But otherwise it's just a very small movement. There's a good chance you might need to do a little escapement adjusting, they tend to come from the factory with fairly heavy locks and you might not get a full healthy amplitude without a little tweaking. You can't put a stronger spring in, the barrel is very small and is already struggling to give the 38 hours of power reserve. Any thicker/longer/shorter spring quickly eats up almost a full turn of wind.

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      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      If the weight was worn how does the post look as normally you'd have to replace both. There should be no real resistance at the end and just be able to keep on winding. Did you insert both springs the same and is the idler gear OK.
    • JohnL
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By JohnL · Posted

      Assembled and running well, I'm asking after the fact. I'm waiting on a new oscillating weight as this one was worn (they have a reputation for it apparently, no bearings). So I've been winding it by hand, but meeting quite a bit of resistance at the end, more than I think an automatic weight will overcome. It's not quite as sudden as a manual mechanism, but there's very little in it, certainly enough that I would be concerned about breaking something if I continued.
    • mbwatch
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      By mbwatch · Posted

      Remove the cannon pinion from the dial side first. The "clip" you describe is sort of a metal tab some American companies designed their cannon pinions with in order to make it easier to tighten friction. If that is the problem, the solution is as simple as gently squeezing the tab with tweezers to bend it ever so slightly inward, while supporting the inside of the cannon pinion if possible (it may be harder to support inside since it does not have an open tip as a hollow tube) The cannon pinion should just pull straight off of the arbor on the dial side if you pull it straight up with tweezers. There's no jewel in danger of breaking and the arbor is thick so there isn't much risk of breaking the arbor. But when you are describing that the center wheel's pinion is not turning the arbor, is the pinion firmly attached to the center wheel? If you remove the center wheel and hold onto the rim of the wheel, does the pinion turn independently of the rest of the wheel? It should not.  I'm not sure if this was the case on older Waltham, but the pinion may be threaded onto the center wheel arbor and they are often loose. This was a safety mechanism for a broken mainspring and may just need to be tightened back down. I can't remember for sure, but these might be a reverse (left) thread instead of normal right. And does the entire arbor turn independently of the wheel? Also should not.
    • AndyGSi
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      You may get some extra friction on the barrel lid so may not slip as easy but I wouldn't think it's a problem. My suggestion would be to finish the assembly and see how it runs.
    • dnhb
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      By dnhb · Posted

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