Jump to content

ETA 2892-2A/ Breitling B44 date change issue

Andyworks
 Share

Recommended Posts

Andyworks Member

Andyworks

Posted
Posted

Good evening 

 

I have been asked to look at a Breitling Crosswind Special Big Date chronograph watch that is fitted with dual date discs on an ETA 2892-2A movement. The movement has the Dubois Depraz module on it. The issue with the watch is that the date changes two days at a time ie goes from say the 2nd to the 4th when the date changes before midnight. It does the same thing when manually changing the date so making sure it is not altered between the hours of 8pm and 3am you can set the date to say the 2nd then manually wind the hands forward using the crown and just as the date is due to change it jumps forward two days.

I have not had chance to look at the watch yet or take it apart but has anyone else had a similar issue with this calibre as it is a workhorse in many brands? Any thoughts as to what may be the issue with it would be greatly appreciated.

https://watchbase.com/breitling/caliber/b44  

http://www.breitlingsource.com/watch_details/Windrider_98.html

Many thanks

Andy

 

Andyworks Member

Andyworks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had an idea this morning that although the Breitling was changing date by two days at a time it is after all gust a gearbox in essence with a mechanical train and levers so what if it was just out of sink? I have had issues with clocks in the past that were out of sync and moving the hands backwards often solved the issue. I thought what have I got to loose before stripping it down. I wound the hands backwards for a total of two days worth of time and as expected the date did not move as it only goes forwards not backwards when moving the hands.

 

I then changed the date with the quick date change (1st click on the crown) and voila the date now changes one day at a time like it is supposed to. I set the date for one day behind the current date and advanced the hands to alter the time using the crown (position 2 on the crown when pulling it out) and the date jumped forwards one day when it reached nearly 12pm. Fantastic.

 

Thought I would let you guys know in case you run into this issue in the future.

 

Many thanks for the people who read my post.

 

Andy

 

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • JohnL
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By JohnL · Posted

      Hi all, Might a posit a theory and people can chime in and tell me if I'm barking up the wrong sycamore: If a mainspring is a bit coned and returned to its barrel for reuse, is it less likely to slip when the spring gets to fully wound?  For a bit of background: Slava 2427, barrel walls greased with 8217, six dots evenly spaced around each of the barrel walls, then smeared/ spread along the wall before popping the springs in. 
    • nickelsilver
      How do you thread a screw on the lathe without shearing it off?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      What kind of screwplate are you using? The old Martin ones commonly came in B and L variants. The thread pitch is slightly different between the two, and the full thread diameters tend to be a little off from metric nominal, but the B plates are close enough to metric that they work most of the time. The numbering follows (pretty much) the numbering for stems- at least how stems threads are commonly called out. So a "tap 12" would be 0.70mm. (I can only guess the "tap" size for stems comes from these old plates)   These old plates tend to cut some and also form the thread by displacing metal. I think in part because they are low-tech, and also generally a bit worn. So it's good to start quite undersize with your initial diameter, and work up to something that gives a full thread form. There are variances plate to plate too, most likely a combination of manufacturing differences and wear.   I haven't tried any modern screw plates, I think they are of questionable origin, and even if marked in metric, probably merit some experimentation like the antique ones to find a good starting diameter.    
    • Mark
      Setting Hands On 7750

      By Mark · Posted

      Exactly. As Richard says, all good - I helped you by splitting your comment made on an old topic into a new topic of your own in order to help with clarity 🙂 Welcome to the forum by the way 👍
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting Hands On 7750

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Mark, means he has made this a separate post, he has split it from the old post. You don't need to start a new thread now. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Carriage clock

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      No, my first time. I've watched the video, lets hope it looks as good as yours. 
×
×
  • Create New...